Match the Pants

You guys know I love to fool with changing my patterns around. Maybe making the neckline or hem different. Sometimes a sleeve.  But it’s good just to pull out a TNT and go with it like I did now with this rayon knit:

I made a pair of pants back in June…

Click to read the pants post and see how nicely SP3200 fit.

….especially to  have for those days when I needed a quick cover-up; something I could pull-on over the clothes I was wearing and be either warm or protected from the sun. I knew when I made them, they wouldn’t get much wear. The 22 hem is really not that flattering for me.  I look best in hems between 17″ and 20″. But these have a purpose and I was pleased to have them. Unexpected thunderstorms in the middle of August  cooled the temps more than 30 deg F and finally the day arrived to wear them.   But when I donned them, I realized I didn’t have a coordinating blouse. Instead of looking put together, I’d look thrown together.

Cameras can be so fun or they can be so frustrating.  The light turquoise colors of the top match the color of the pants. They do!  But in my sewing room; at that time of day? well it looks like I made no effort instead of the close examination that actually took place. Cameras! Grrrrrr!

A hunt through the stash produced 5 possible fabrics which I narrowed to the rayon knit when I decided that I wanted a sleeveless or short sleeve top that fit close to the figure because big on bottom looks better with small on top.  Big bottom + big on top makes me look like a walking sofa. Anyway with fabric selected for the project in mind, my attention turned to patterns. I’m still contemplating the pant drafting (by that I mean fussing and whining but not admitting defeat) so a simpler project would be a good break and maybe help me refocus. Since I want closer fit (I don’t like skin tight), the choice became simple, my 6299 adapted for slinky knits and the extended shoulder templates.  All patterns that I have and have worked out the issues.

True to my expectations, I think I spent more time threading the serger and cover stitch than anything else.

I made 1 goof. Most instructions for FOE have you apply the FOE in a 1:1 ratio.  When I do that, my FOE flutters and flutes.  I wanted my garment to snug into my upper body. So I put a little (I thought) tension on the FOE. Obviously too much.

But not all is lost.  In fact, I count this a learning experience.  I wrote on my extended shoulder template to use FOE 22″ long.  22″ may be a little too long and I’ll need to revise the figure downward. At least I won’t repeat this goof, which has the armscye hugging a bit too close for comfort.

Well I’m ready for that next in-between day i.e. too cool for shorts and too warm for jeans + sweaters.

Ah yes, this is type experience that reassures me:  sewing is good.

Attacking the Extended Shoulder

Well that’s the way I felt, even if I didn’t have knives or other dangerous stuff (beyond what is normally in a sewing room).  Thing is, I still want the extended shoulder of my beloved PAS i.e. Louise Cuttings Pure and Simple Shell

This OOP pattern has been my favorite from the day issued and I remain totally disheartened by my inability to make it fit me.  One of the PAS’s distinguishing style lines is the extended almost-cap-sleeve shoulder.  I’ve made 2 attempts to copy this style line onto a pattern I can fit, Connie Crawford’s 6299.  I like both the Flutter Sleeve and the separate Cap Sleeve  I have created and worn; but they just aren’t exactly the extended shoulder of the PAS.  But,,, both of those attempts gave me lots of knowledge concerning how to draft and the results of certain choices.

I am using the Peplum Version of 6299.  which was self-drafted by superimposing the peplum of Silhouette Patterns 312 over  my fitted 6299 and tracing the 2. I know that I will want to use this sleeve/extended shoulder with the other versions of 6299.  (I do have a few as 6299 has been wonderfully versatile for me.) So I started by tracing back and front pieces from shoulder to empire line.

Starting on the front, I measured 1″ away from the armscye placed a tick; then measured 1″ down from the shoulder and placed a second tick mark.

Retrieved my curve and aligned it with the armscye curve before swinging it out to intersect the 1″ guide line

Then I aligned my curve with the shoulder before swinging it down to meet the 2nd 1″-tick

Changing the back was similar. I drew the back armscye as was done for the front armscye but then I aligned the  front extended-shoulder with the back shoulder and traced the  front shoulder line.  The shoulders have to be the same. They have to or the shoulder will not lay nicely on the body. I trimmed the excess tissue from both pattern pieces and proceeded to lay out my fabric. I placed place the 6299 Peplum on the fabric and then aligned the extended shoulder pattern on top of the 6299 Peplum front and back pattern pieces. It’s easier done then written.

After that it was pretty much standard cut, sew, hem.  I had wanted to add a lace neckline piece to the front on this lovely ITY fabric.

I bought the fabric last fall and have been dying to use it ever since.  In my mind it was always a summer to fall top. No other choice.  I made a slight goof on the lace.  I had chosen a much larger, very prominent lace but then I cut the neckline according to the pattern piece i.e. without adjusting for the lace piece. At that point, the lace would not fit nicely, no matter what trimming I could envision.  My choices became a) discard the lace trim idea or b) choose another.

I chose the lace above because it fit nicely once I had trimmed the bars at the shoulders

I still wish I could have used the larger lace, but I’m happy with this one too.

All the fit issues have been previously worked out. It was a question now of what did I think of the shoulder:

I’m calling this project done.  If I don’t have it spot-on, I’m so close I can’t tell there is any difference with my extended shoulder and the PAS.  Love it when things work out!!

Attempt 2 at a Cap Sleeve

Wanting a cap sleeve not a flutter sleeve, I tried again.  This time as I hunted through the same places as before (on-line, Pinterest, drafting books), I came across an interesting cap sleeve that really was a separate sewn-in sleeve:

I dashed in a line on the right sleeve to help you see the seam. (I had to look hard to see that seam) The seam is lost in the busy print.  At first glance, the sleeve looks as if cut-on. This gave me a new direction.  Instead of altering my front and back pieces, I copied  the cap only of the sleeve I’d worked with and successfully fit a few months ago:

I guessed how long I wanted my cap sleeve and then added a 1/2″ hem; finally trimmed the excess tissue all away:

My test fabric is a cotton/poly shirting. On arrival this fabric surprised me.  You know how you order fabric on-line and when you get you wonder if that’s what your ordered?  Often the colors or print size and even the fiber content can be different from what you thought you saw on the internet; or at least that happens to me.  This fabric looked better in person then it did on-screen.  I almost did not buy it but I liked the pink and blue touches. I think my blouse is so cute that  I’m doubly glad to have added it to my cart.

Not only was it pretty and easy to sew but it doesn’t look sloppy like the rayon challis.  I did no more than transfer the 1/8″ deeper princess curves from the flutter sleeve to my basic fitted pattern. (The one I copied to make the flutter sleeve). This fabric added inherent body makes the basic shape crisper.

I think I’d like the cap sleeve to hug my arm a little more and I’m trying to decide if I want it this long; a little shorter; a little longer? Whatever I decide, this cap was so easy to draft and sew I may add it to all my other TNT tops.

I am really happy to be ready to proceed with the project which kicked-off this sleeve search:

 

 

My Self-Drafted, In-Armscye, Cap-Sleeve Garment

I chose an interesting print I bought earlier this year for my test garment.  I was fairly sure the garment would fit.  I thought I might need to tweak the shoulder to remove the raised 3/8″.   If worst comes to worst, I planned to completely cut away the cap-sleeve addition and create just a sleeveless knit top.

Construction was easy and simple  I taped the front neckline and the back shoulders. Serge finished side seams.  Stitched the bust darts and the shoulders together.  I remembered to stitch the right shoulder seam 1/8″ deeper than the left. That’s such a little detail but makes a real difference in how my tops look especially on the back.

 

I decided upon black FOE to finish the neckline and armscyes.  I was thinking and had prepared white FOE because the major color in this fabric is white; red secondary and black is like an after thought. After a short break I decided that black was the accent and would be a better color choice for the FOE.  That did mean switching out the white thread and bobbin to black thread and bobbin while stitching the FOE.  I carefully applied the FOE around the armscyes at an exact 1:1 but pulled the FOE taut when applying to the neckline.  Somehow that didn’t quite work as the neckline is just a tad wobbly.  It could definitely been pulled tighter.  The FOE around the armscyes looks fine.  I feel the edge of the cap sleeve across my arm.  I think that’s the way it should be.  Not tight. Not uncomfortable other than an awareness that it’s there.

 

I really like this. Yes the neckline FOE could be improved and I could have removed a little more ease–but that’s a fabric thing. This rayon/lycra has more stretch than the moderate ITY knits that I’ve been working with.    The fit is very good. I much prefer this to the B&R draft and will be experimenting with it more in the future.  I connected the cap sleeve to the notch in the armscye.  I think it’s also possible to connect higher up within the armscye. I also used a convex curve.  A concave curve and even making a flutter sleeve are options.  So room to play in the future. For now, I’m really glad I have a cap sleeve option.  I still have 10 weeks of summer.  I need bared-arm options!

In-Armscye Cap Sleeve Draft

I don’t know what else to call this particular draft. It does change the armscye but not to the same extent as the extended shoulder drafts. So until someone tells me differently, I’m proceeding with calling it the In-Armscye Cap-Sleeve.

I’m sewing woven fabrics for fitting reasons but truth is I mostly wear knits or stretch-wovens. When I began this draft I decided immediately I was going to work with knits and solve woven issues if I ever had a woven fabric I wanted to use in this fashion.   I pulled out my sleeveless, knit sloper and traced it.  I traced the vertical darts but know I’m not going to use them with the first version.  I traced the horizontal bust dart.  I’ll use it as drafted this time but have future plans to rotate and move it freely.  Since this is a cap sleeve, and my best cap sleeve draft was made following the B&R  instructions. I raised the shoulder point 3/8″ before extending the shoulder 1″.   Then the extended shoulder is joined within the armscye using a curve:

The Green area is all that changes

I used a concave curve. I’m not sure but  it could be a convex curve instead. I know I’ve never seen this cap sleeve as a straight line.  I’m not absolutely sure where the concave curve should join the armscye or the maximum length the shoulder can be extended.   If I like this draft, I plan to experiment with both those variables in future versions.  I think it’s possible that this will fit, be comfortable and attractive because I’ve made similar  patterns in the past.

Margolis recommends making a facing that covers the sleeve and armscye.  In general, I don’t like facings.  They add bulk. If not secured they flap around and expose themselves usually at an inopportune time. Securing the facing, i.e. stitching it to the garment, emphasizes the bulk and if done incorrectly will twist and add puckers and be uncomfortable. I especially don’t like facings because they are usually an awkward narrow width and difficult to finish neatly.  Long ago I started replacing facings with anything else. Since this is drafted for moderate stretch knits, I will probably use FOE, a strip of self-fabric or a bias binding along those edges.  I may even turn and stitch or turn and cover stitch.   It’s not unthinkable to leave the edges raw. No, I’m unlikely to do that.