My title sums up how I felt. I just couldn’t let go of how difficult it had been to fit SP600 — and I still had issues that needed to be solved (sleeve wrinkles and front shoulder vertical folds.) So I got to thinking about a few remarks on SG. Some of the helpful people there remarked that just like me they used a size 4 for knit pattern and made a few small tweaks but on pattern for woven fabrics they went down to a size 3. Oh and I still wondered if I had traced the right size to start with.
So I got out the originals and realized immediately that I hadn’t even traced 600, I traced 618. I assumed that 600 was the same as 618 because 600 is the base. Well, the base is where Peggy starts. Anything could have changed to achieve the style of 618. So I traced Size 4 making sure I had the 1-4 pieces from 600. I trimmed and pressed the collar and facing, I didn’t copy them. I didn’t like that collar and wasn’t planning to use it; and often I make so many fitting changes that facings have to be redrafted. In my mind, no point in copying those right now. Then I copied the size 3 on the same tissue, exactly as the 2 sizes are printed. I used Blue ink for the size 4 and Green ink for size 3 throughout. Then I pulled out my tissue that I called 600 but was really 618. I compared the altered SP618 to traced 3/4 SP600. I was half way expecting to have traced the wrong size or have done something drastically wrong due to style/pattern differences. But the size 4’s were consistent of course allowing for alteration made. Disappointed, I started looking at what size the final 618 really was and I said “Huh?” Then again: “Huh!” My altered 618 is nearly a size 3 across the shoulders and down to the bust. It is a size 4 from bust to hem. Altered 618 and newly traced 6000 are not perfectly alike but really close. The 2nd huh was from realizing I might have an easy procedure after all:
- Trace size 3 Shoulders to bust
- Trace Size 4 side seams to hem
- Add 1/2″ to back side seam
- Add 5/8″ shoulder slope
- Add 5/8″ RBA and CB seam
- Sew back but not front darts
With that thought firmly in mind, I trimmed the excess tissue from my newly traced 600; chose a new fabric and laid out pattern pieces.
I was glad I followed my usual proceedure and snapped out the lights to go upstairs after getting that far. Overnight I realized 2 things (1), I didn’t want to use the fabric I selected. It was a good choice and a lovely print. But all night long I kept dreaming of it sewn up in CC5967. I’m not physic; definitely not a sensitive of any kind. I’m even kind of socially dumb/inept. But I do have this left brain that can jump through mountains of data and come up with good solutions. It does seem to be shy about sharing the solutions thought and often brings them up during dream time. In the morning I realized ‘ol Lefty was telling me more don’t use that fabric. I also realized the fabric I did want to use (an interest plaid of rayon challis) and that I had really overlooked the sleeve issues.
I’ don’t thing there’s anything wrong with the draft. Rather my alterations changed things up a bit and I didn’t offset the changes which affect the sleeve. First thing I did was reduce the sleeve cap length by 5/8″. Not sure that’s enough because both back and front armscye are reduced 5/8″ due to the increased shoulder slope of 5/8″. But it is a start and can be changed again. I also pulled out the 5202 sleeve; aligned the cap lines and traced the angle of the side seam and dashed in the 5202 hem line. Only dashed in because I want to be able o use a full length sleeve or use a 5202 mashup. So I dashed and wrote “fold here for 5202 cuff” then I added the cuff depth (3.5′) plus my standard hem (1.25″) to the bottom of the sleeve. Trimmed the excess. Then I measured out on each side to create a 15″ hem width/circumference. and redrew the the sides to meet my desired width. Trimmed the excess from the sides. I hope, have my fingers crossed, pretty sure this will work because I’ve done similar alterations in the past; but I hope I have successfully drafted a sleeve I like because I didn’t like the original on me. It just looked dang frumpy. Then I pressed my newly selected fabric and laid out my pattern pieces.
I cut the back; serged the center back seam; taped the neckline to stabilize and stitched the back darts. Cut the fronts; stitched the bust dart and even though you will see a vertical line I did not stitch the waist dart. I stitched a very narrow about 1/16″ tuck. I will achieve the visual effect of the dart without actually reducing any circumference across my tummy. Swapped the bobbin thread out for WST (Water Soluble Thread) and basted shoulders and side seams. See I had decided to take advantage of every fitting opportunity. I’ really am hoping to have discovered a procedure that will make fitting SP woven tops as easy as fitting SP knit tops. It’s the ease of fitting that has endeared and excited me about SP patterns — even if it did take a long time and several muslins to get here.
So anyway Fit01:
—————–Not sharing unusually dart pic of right side.————————————
So my estimation is “Not nearly as bad as either of the 2 previous SP600 blouses. Which makes me really happy. It’s what I was hoping for back there the first of April. I paid special attention to gaping at back neck and shoulder length. Did a quick check of where my bust point is and where the bust dart points. Noted that I still have more than expected ease under the arm. In the back of my mind I was hoping I didn’t need the extra 1/2” added to the back wide seam. Sigh, my seat really does. I made it a point to mark with pins my tummy and hip as well as the previously mentioned bust point and notated those on my pattern pieces. As far as fit mostly I’m seeing too much ease at the underarm both front and back; 1 clear and 1 ghost V on the right side none on the left. (I forgot to add my shoulder pads and that could make a difference). I think I’m ready to baste the sleeve in and take more pics.
OK I did a little more than just baste the sleeves. I got downstairs and said to myself “Hold on a sec”. The back neck wasn’t gaping, the shoulders are the right length and I’m not inclined to increase the shoulder slope. At a certain point instead of improving the fit, increasing the shoulder angle starts making the shoulder peak and gape. I’m close to that right now. So I decided it was time to finish the neckline and the front facing. I serged the shoulder seams and then wanting a front V neckline this time I pinned the fronts together and trimmed off the lapel. Then I added the front facings and, my favorite, bias binding to the back neck. I cut my sleeves. 5202 style and I have a problem. Maybe. Do you remember my saying I was adding 1/2″ to back side seam? Well whatever you do to the bodice needs to be done or offset on the sleeve. I added 1/2″ to the sleeve seam but the front not the back. Didn’t realize it until I was cutting the very last 3″ of sleeve. Too late. Not only that but not enough fabric to cut a new set. Can’t piece the scraps together. I don’t think I have enough left over to even use for jean pocket facings. So I was at an impasse. After a few minutes I said “glad this is a muslin”. Went ahead and basted sleeves into armscyes. And that’s where it became really confusing because they basted together without any problems. I matched cap and armscye at shoulder seam/sleeve notch and basted together without hardly slowing down. So did I or didn’t I goof? Not sure especially when I was able to see the pics for Fit 01:
Keep in mind that cuffs are not attached. No side V’s which means RBA must be fine. No gapping back neck also indicating RBA is fine. On the previous 600/618 I had to increase the SA at the neck. In fact I increased the CB seam from waist up to neck to achieve a likeable fit. Totally not needed. I also can see that I have sufficient ease but not too much at tummy and hip. (Feels that way too). I don’t see the front hem rising a continual issue for me that seems to always require another alteration. Not seeing any sleeve or armscye issues, do you?
Front looks pretty good. Shoulders are sitting where I like them; sleeve is not bad. Although right sleeve looks better than left. Don’t know if you can see up close but I think I stretched my V neckline. Swear I cut and then immediately stitched the facing to the bodice. Should have stabilized it. Bad decision on my part. I will be making another front pattern piece with the V neckline because it is one of my favorites. That will help me avoid this problem. For now, (shrug) it’s wearable muslin. UPS man won’t notice. All he cares about is being able to tap in his gizmo that he delivered to a little old lady who came out of the house.
This is not the best back view. Looks like I’m not standing straight or have shifted my weight to one of my legs. Shoulders again sitting where and like I like. Sleeves/armscyes looking pretty good — sometimes it’s hard to tell when you have a distracting print. Just does not look bad period. Doncha think I may as well finish this and summarize my experience?
Well I’d say this is close and even better than the Stripe version which I do love:
I love Loes Hinse 5202 sleeve in combination with this pattern. So easy to sew and feels comfortable. But there may still be room for improvement. I see nothing wrong with the sleeve. I’m really thinking letting out the back dart and taking in under the arm a bit more.
Which leads to my revising my procedure for Silhouette Patterns Wove Tops. Think I will be
- Tracing Size 3 from shoulder to under bust ; Merge out to a size 4 from there to hem
- Add another 1/2″ to the back side seam from waist to hem
- 5/8″ shoulder slope
- 5/8″ RBA
Now that is something I can handle!