I don’t know what else to call this particular draft. It does change the armscye but not to the same extent as the extended shoulder drafts. So until someone tells me differently, I’m proceeding with calling it the In-Armscye Cap-Sleeve.
I’m sewing woven fabrics for fitting reasons but truth is I mostly wear knits or stretch-wovens. When I began this draft I decided immediately I was going to work with knits and solve woven issues if I ever had a woven fabric I wanted to use in this fashion. I pulled out my sleeveless, knit sloper and traced it. I traced the vertical darts but know I’m not going to use them with the first version. I traced the horizontal bust dart. I’ll use it as drafted this time but have future plans to rotate and move it freely. Since this is a cap sleeve, and my best cap sleeve draft was made following the B&R instructions. I raised the shoulder point 3/8″ before extending the shoulder 1″. Then the extended shoulder is joined within the armscye using a curve:
I used a concave curve. I’m not sure but it could be a convex curve instead. I know I’ve never seen this cap sleeve as a straight line. I’m not absolutely sure where the concave curve should join the armscye or the maximum length the shoulder can be extended. If I like this draft, I plan to experiment with both those variables in future versions. I think it’s possible that this will fit, be comfortable and attractive because I’ve made similar patterns in the past.
Margolis recommends making a facing that covers the sleeve and armscye. In general, I don’t like facings. They add bulk. If not secured they flap around and expose themselves usually at an inopportune time. Securing the facing, i.e. stitching it to the garment, emphasizes the bulk and if done incorrectly will twist and add puckers and be uncomfortable. I especially don’t like facings because they are usually an awkward narrow width and difficult to finish neatly. Long ago I started replacing facings with anything else. Since this is drafted for moderate stretch knits, I will probably use FOE, a strip of self-fabric or a bias binding along those edges. I may even turn and stitch or turn and cover stitch. It’s not unthinkable to leave the edges raw. No, I’m unlikely to do that.