I chose an interesting print I bought earlier this year for my test garment. I was fairly sure the garment would fit. I thought I might need to tweak the shoulder to remove the raised 3/8″. If worst comes to worst, I planned to completely cut away the cap-sleeve addition and create just a sleeveless knit top.
Construction was easy and simple I taped the front neckline and the back shoulders. Serge finished side seams. Stitched the bust darts and the shoulders together. I remembered to stitch the right shoulder seam 1/8″ deeper than the left. That’s such a little detail but makes a real difference in how my tops look especially on the back.
I decided upon black FOE to finish the neckline and armscyes. I was thinking and had prepared white FOE because the major color in this fabric is white; red secondary and black is like an after thought. After a short break I decided that black was the accent and would be a better color choice for the FOE. That did mean switching out the white thread and bobbin to black thread and bobbin while stitching the FOE. I carefully applied the FOE around the armscyes at an exact 1:1 but pulled the FOE taut when applying to the neckline. Somehow that didn’t quite work as the neckline is just a tad wobbly. It could definitely been pulled tighter. The FOE around the armscyes looks fine. I feel the edge of the cap sleeve across my arm. I think that’s the way it should be. Not tight. Not uncomfortable other than an awareness that it’s there.
I really like this. Yes the neckline FOE could be improved and I could have removed a little more ease–but that’s a fabric thing. This rayon/lycra has more stretch than the moderate ITY knits that I’ve been working with. The fit is very good. I much prefer this to the B&R draft and will be experimenting with it more in the future. I connected the cap sleeve to the notch in the armscye. I think it’s also possible to connect higher up within the armscye. I also used a convex curve. A concave curve and even making a flutter sleeve are options. So room to play in the future. For now, I’m really glad I have a cap sleeve option. I still have 10 weeks of summer. I need bared-arm options!