My Self-Drafted, In-Armscye, Cap-Sleeve Garment

I chose an interesting print I bought earlier this year for my test garment.  I was fairly sure the garment would fit.  I thought I might need to tweak the shoulder to remove the raised 3/8″.   If worst comes to worst, I planned to completely cut away the cap-sleeve addition and create just a sleeveless knit top.

Construction was easy and simple  I taped the front neckline and the back shoulders. Serge finished side seams.  Stitched the bust darts and the shoulders together.  I remembered to stitch the right shoulder seam 1/8″ deeper than the left. That’s such a little detail but makes a real difference in how my tops look especially on the back.


I decided upon black FOE to finish the neckline and armscyes.  I was thinking and had prepared white FOE because the major color in this fabric is white; red secondary and black is like an after thought. After a short break I decided that black was the accent and would be a better color choice for the FOE.  That did mean switching out the white thread and bobbin to black thread and bobbin while stitching the FOE.  I carefully applied the FOE around the armscyes at an exact 1:1 but pulled the FOE taut when applying to the neckline.  Somehow that didn’t quite work as the neckline is just a tad wobbly.  It could definitely been pulled tighter.  The FOE around the armscyes looks fine.  I feel the edge of the cap sleeve across my arm.  I think that’s the way it should be.  Not tight. Not uncomfortable other than an awareness that it’s there.


I really like this. Yes the neckline FOE could be improved and I could have removed a little more ease–but that’s a fabric thing. This rayon/lycra has more stretch than the moderate ITY knits that I’ve been working with.    The fit is very good. I much prefer this to the B&R draft and will be experimenting with it more in the future.  I connected the cap sleeve to the notch in the armscye.  I think it’s also possible to connect higher up within the armscye. I also used a convex curve.  A concave curve and even making a flutter sleeve are options.  So room to play in the future. For now, I’m really glad I have a cap sleeve option.  I still have 10 weeks of summer.  I need bared-arm options!


4 thoughts on “My Self-Drafted, In-Armscye, Cap-Sleeve Garment

  1. Thanks for your work on the cap sleeve top. I’ve loosely been working on a pattern without success. This method will work better than the traditional method that I’ve tried.


    1. Your very welcome. In fact, I’m flattered and pleased by your compliment. I still plan to experiment with the kimono draft but I’m so pleased with the current result that I’ve reinforced the tissue for future use.



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