Well that’s the way I felt, even if I didn’t have knives or other dangerous stuff (beyond what is normally in a sewing room). Thing is, I still want the extended shoulder of my beloved PAS i.e. Louise Cuttings Pure and Simple Shell
This OOP pattern has been my favorite from the day issued and I remain totally disheartened by my inability to make it fit me. One of the PAS’s distinguishing style lines is the extended almost-cap-sleeve shoulder. I’ve made 2 attempts to copy this style line onto a pattern I can fit, Connie Crawford’s 6299. I like both the Flutter Sleeve and the separate Cap Sleeve I have created and worn; but they just aren’t exactly the extended shoulder of the PAS. But,,, both of those attempts gave me lots of knowledge concerning how to draft and the results of certain choices.
I am using the Peplum Version of 6299. which was self-drafted by superimposing the peplum of Silhouette Patterns 312 over my fitted 6299 and tracing the 2. I know that I will want to use this sleeve/extended shoulder with the other versions of 6299. (I do have a few as 6299 has been wonderfully versatile for me.) So I started by tracing back and front pieces from shoulder to empire line.
Starting on the front, I measured 1″ away from the armscye placed a tick; then measured 1″ down from the shoulder and placed a second tick mark.
Retrieved my curve and aligned it with the armscye curve before swinging it out to intersect the 1″ guide line
Then I aligned my curve with the shoulder before swinging it down to meet the 2nd 1″-tick
Changing the back was similar. I drew the back armscye as was done for the front armscye but then I aligned the front extended-shoulder with the back shoulder and traced the front shoulder line. The shoulders have to be the same. They have to or the shoulder will not lay nicely on the body. I trimmed the excess tissue from both pattern pieces and proceeded to lay out my fabric. I placed place the 6299 Peplum on the fabric and then aligned the extended shoulder pattern on top of the 6299 Peplum front and back pattern pieces. It’s easier done then written.
After that it was pretty much standard cut, sew, hem. I had wanted to add a lace neckline piece to the front on this lovely ITY fabric.
I bought the fabric last fall and have been dying to use it ever since. In my mind it was always a summer to fall top. No other choice. I made a slight goof on the lace. I had chosen a much larger, very prominent lace but then I cut the neckline according to the pattern piece i.e. without adjusting for the lace piece. At that point, the lace would not fit nicely, no matter what trimming I could envision. My choices became a) discard the lace trim idea or b) choose another.
I chose the lace above because it fit nicely once I had trimmed the bars at the shoulders
I still wish I could have used the larger lace, but I’m happy with this one too.
All the fit issues have been previously worked out. It was a question now of what did I think of the shoulder:
I’m calling this project done. If I don’t have it spot-on, I’m so close I can’t tell there is any difference with my extended shoulder and the PAS. Love it when things work out!!
Wanting a cap sleeve not a flutter sleeve, I tried again. This time as I hunted through the same places as before (on-line, Pinterest, drafting books), I came across an interesting cap sleeve that really was a separate sewn-in sleeve:
I dashed in a line on the right sleeve to help you see the seam. (I had to look hard to see that seam) The seam is lost in the busy print. At first glance, the sleeve looks as if cut-on. This gave me a new direction. Instead of altering my front and back pieces, I copied the cap only of the sleeve I’d worked with and successfully fit a few months ago:
I guessed how long I wanted my cap sleeve and then added a 1/2″ hem; finally trimmed the excess tissue all away:
My test fabric is a cotton/poly shirting. On arrival this fabric surprised me. You know how you order fabric on-line and when you get you wonder if that’s what your ordered? Often the colors or print size and even the fiber content can be different from what you thought you saw on the internet; or at least that happens to me. This fabric looked better in person then it did on-screen. I almost did not buy it but I liked the pink and blue touches. I think my blouse is so cute that I’m doubly glad to have added it to my cart.
Not only was it pretty and easy to sew but it doesn’t look sloppy like the rayon challis. I did no more than transfer the 1/8″ deeper princess curves from the flutter sleeve to my basic fitted pattern. (The one I copied to make the flutter sleeve). This fabric added inherent body makes the basic shape crisper.
I think I’d like the cap sleeve to hug my arm a little more and I’m trying to decide if I want it this long; a little shorter; a little longer? Whatever I decide, this cap was so easy to draft and sew I may add it to all my other TNT tops.
I am really happy to be ready to proceed with the project which kicked-off this sleeve search:
I don’t know what else to call this particular draft. It does change the armscye but not to the same extent as the extended shoulder drafts. So until someone tells me differently, I’m proceeding with calling it the In-Armscye Cap-Sleeve.
I’m sewing woven fabrics for fitting reasons but truth is I mostly wear knits or stretch-wovens. When I began this draft I decided immediately I was going to work with knits and solve woven issues if I ever had a woven fabric I wanted to use in this fashion. I pulled out my sleeveless, knit sloper and traced it. I traced the vertical darts but know I’m not going to use them with the first version. I traced the horizontal bust dart. I’ll use it as drafted this time but have future plans to rotate and move it freely. Since this is a cap sleeve, and my best cap sleeve draft was made following the B&R instructions. I raised the shoulder point 3/8″ before extending the shoulder 1″. Then the extended shoulder is joined within the armscye using a curve:
The Green area is all that changes
I used a concave curve. I’m not sure but it could be a convex curve instead. I know I’ve never seen this cap sleeve as a straight line. I’m not absolutely sure where the concave curve should join the armscye or the maximum length the shoulder can be extended. If I like this draft, I plan to experiment with both those variables in future versions. I think it’s possible that this will fit, be comfortable and attractive because I’ve made similar patterns in the past.
Margolis recommends making a facing that covers the sleeve and armscye. In general, I don’t like facings. They add bulk. If not secured they flap around and expose themselves usually at an inopportune time. Securing the facing, i.e. stitching it to the garment, emphasizes the bulk and if done incorrectly will twist and add puckers and be uncomfortable. I especially don’t like facings because they are usually an awkward narrow width and difficult to finish neatly. Long ago I started replacing facings with anything else. Since this is drafted for moderate stretch knits, I will probably use FOE, a strip of self-fabric or a bias binding along those edges. I may even turn and stitch or turn and cover stitch. It’s not unthinkable to leave the edges raw. No, I’m unlikely to do that.
My fabric is part of the warehouse clean-outs that Walmart did 30-35 years ago when all the manufacturing was moved off-shore. I didn’t do a burn test. I should be more interested in fiber content but I’m not. It looks and feels like tussah silk but doesn’t have that peculiar silk aroma. I’m guessing silk/cotton blend in a pinky/peachy color. More interested in the effect of my drafting changes, I tested for drape-ability (sp?). I draped and pinned onto my dressform. Twisted, folded. Draped again. The fabric wrinkles. It can be pressed to a smoother appearance but wants to hold onto at least some of the wrinkles. Perhaps that’s because it’s been in my own stash for so long.
While I was playing with drape, I decided I didn’t want a center front or back seam. I wanted to be sure my draft was not somehow ‘borrowing’ ease. I’ve seen this phenom most clearly with pants with front pockets. Somehow the pant draft can use the pocket lining and facing to supplement ease. I did cut a wider neckline. 1/2″ wider on both sides of the neck. 1/2″ deeper in back and 7″ deep in front. I decided this fabric would make a plain and nondescript blouse; especially when muted peach fabric blends with muted light-colored me. I opt to trace the front ruffle from Burda Style 117 Aug 2009.
Hoping for a little more contrast and interest, I used the Natural colored Stretch Maxi Lock thread and rolled the edge of the ruffle. I took a break. When I returned I realized even that added little interest. After some consideration and testing, I decided to remove 1 needle from my cover stitch and using the same Maxi Lock thread apply chain stitched stripes to the front of the ruffles spaced 1.5″ apart. Decided that the back was pretty plain too and added 5 stripes 1″ apart on the back.
Next issue was the front opening and closure. While I had cut the neckline deeper, it would not be enough to easily slip over my head. Also I wanted this garment to resemble the Burda from which I copied the ruffle. I stitched the bottom half of the right and left ruffles together; carefully placed them with right side to wrong side of the front and along the center front fold. I stitched, well just like I was making a placket. Checked the stitching from the front before Frey checking, slicing the center front and turning the ruffle to the outside.
Closure? I had intended to add 4 buttons with elastic button loops formed from small hair elastics. Unfortunately, my hair elastics were bright yellow, magenta and dark purple. None that I wanted to use with this peach and vanilla. Making sure I had twice the length of the front opening, I attached round elastic to the left front of the left side using a bridging stitch. I’ll make a more complete post on this closure because I think it’s pretty neat but takes a long time to describe.
I hemmed and then tried on for fit. Yeah, possible mistake but I didn’t worry about fit until it was all done. I thought I was just making a tweak along the shoulder. I really didn’t think adding 1/4″ to the shoulder height would make a big difference. Of course, I was wrong.
After, 5 pics of the back I knew this was a loser.
The best of 5 pics
For daily wear, I’m not going to adjust my clothes as much as I did for those first 5 pics. When I dress, I slip my clothes on; smooth them down and I’m gone. Anything that has to be fussed with is not kept in my wardrobe. I realized I made one important sewing mistake. My shoulders are uneven. I’ve been able to compensate by sewing the right shoulder seam 1/8″ deeper than the left. I got so involved in the embellishment; in trying to add interest that I forgot to sew that 1/8″ seam.
I stretched the ruffle. Despite being aware and taking care, I stretched the ruffle. It should not be this long. It should ruffle down the front — not stick out and away from the neck, shoulders and elsewhere
There is always the possibility the fabric had an effect on the final fit and appearance. It does have a bit of nap. Not like velvet but a soft texture and a tendency to cling. And there are good things to say about the final fit. Rotating the shoulder dart to the hem added enough ease across the shoulder blades and hip. For the first time with this draft, I appear to have a little too much ease both front and back. I’m not sure if that corrected the sleeve binding or if it was the shorter length (4.5 vs 5.5″) but the sleeve is definitely not cutting into my arm. The hem is fairly level. In fact my first impression was that it is level. It’s only close inspections that has me questioning.
.
..but because I didn’t stitch the right shoulder 1/8″ deeper and I did raise the shoulder point another 1/4″, I have these droops. On me, those are indications that the shoulder is not correctly fit.
I’ve already removed my antique buttons and thrown the garment in the trash. Even with good things to say, I’m just not going to wear this blouse. But I take away new knowledge and some answers to questions I asked two posts ago. I now know that there is a limit to how high the shoulder point can be raised in conjunction with extending the shoulder for a cap sleeve. For me that is less than 5/8″. I also know that rotating the shoulder dart to the hem will provide the last bit of ease I need for my back side and simplify sewing. I know that the Barnfield and Richards Draft is probably my best extended shoulder/cap sleeve although shortening the shoulder extension to 4.5 or less is a good idea. I may make the pattern a little longer. The final garment is a little blocky which is not my best look.
OTOH, I don’t think I’ll work with this particular draft much more i.e. I won’t be cutting yokes to make it look like the RAL top. While not bad, the B&R draft is not wonderful either. I want to proceed to the in-armscye cap sleeve and the kimono draft.
I took time to carefully consider my options and motivations. I do want an attached cap sleeve pattern that fits me well. I’m saddened, frustrated and even angry that it’s no longer easy to fit patterns. I’ve added *one change -an increased shoulder slope. I feel like I should be able to trace the new pattern; make my NSA, BWL and (the new change) increased shoulder slope. I have yet to make that procedure work with a commercial pattern. In fact, I have spent more time trying to get a pattern to fit than had I draped, muslined, pinched and whatever 3 or 4 times. My quickest and best fittings occur when I trace my sloper (or a TNT) and copy a style line or two. Since I really like the attached cap sleeve, I’m determined to create an attached cap-sleeve sloper. I’m so close to that now, that I decided to delay working with either the in-armscye cap or kimono shoulder and work through the last possible tweaks. Well last tweaks that I can think of.
I began by tracing the front and back of my woven blouse sloper. Ignored the sleeves, after all the point is to create the sloper with attached cap sleeve.
Starting with the back, I rotated 1/2 of the of the shoulder dart to the hem. My shoulder dart is a total of 1/4″ Not much, but makes a huge difference in how blouses look on me. So I rotated 1/8″ from shoulder to hem. The remaining 1/8″ will be eased to the front shoulder seam.
I marked the underarm 1.5″ lower.
Raised the shoulder point 5/8″. I contemplated raising in 1/8″ increments (3/8, 1/2, 4/8 etc) but decided that I wanted dramatic differences. I wanted to be able to clearly see if my changes were having an effect. Besides, if I’ve raised the point two high, I can stitch the seam allowance deeper. Much eased that trying to add fabric in 1/8″ increments.
Extended the shoulder 4.5″. I think I may take that down as far as 3″ but when I first drew that on the paper my new pattern looked really odd. I thought this time I should use smaller increments and more subtle differences. I could trim the cap sleeve some more after basting it together. Probably won’t do that.
I thought about shaping the shoulder and underarm seams like you do for pants hems. But didn’t think of that again until the fabric was cut. So a future option, eh?
I drew the side seam by joining the 4.5″ plotted shoulder point to the 1.5″ lowered underarm.
Thought a lot about the next step. Even took a long lunch break to think this through. Using Pivot and Slide instructions, I added 1/2″ ease at the underarm and 6.5″ below the waist. This is import for a couple of reasons. Top of the list, is I’m not getting the ease I add to the back placed where it is needed. Rotating 1/8″ of the shoulder dart to the hem, added 1/4″ (1/8″ *2) across the back between the shoulder blades. At the hip 1″ (1/2″ *2) ease was added. Nice when one alteration corrects two problems. Using P&S to add 1/2″ at underarm and hip added another 1″ across the shoulder blades and across the hips. I’m really happy to have added this much ease right where it is needed. I’ve noticed that I could use a size larger in back. Well almost. Across the top of the shoulders where my blouses and tops hang from, I don’t need any changes.
That’s a lot of changes; and that was only the back. Fortunately the front required far fewer changes.
I marked the 1.5″ lower underarm.
Raised the shoulder point 5/8″ (same reasoning as for the back).
Extended the shoulder line 4.5″ (same reasoning as for the back).
Connected the cap sleeve point and the underarm by drawing a straight line.
I know pics make a blog post more interesting but a pic of the new pattern wouldn’t really show anything. The changes from the B&R draft are subtle. Definitely effective but not something that you immediately notice. So, no pic of the modified pattern extended shoulder/cap sleeve bodice.
—————————————————————————————————-
*Well two (2) physical changes. The sloping shoulder and the just recently acknowledged uneven shoulders (my left shoulder is higher than my right). The uneven shoulder is not really a new change — just one that I’m finally acknowledging and correcting.
Adele Margolis (Create Your Own Dress Patterns) suggests a second procedure for joining the new shoulder point to the side seam. I’m calling this Margolis #2. The shoulder is extended the desired length and the underarm marked 1-2″ below the sloper’s. Then the side seam is drawn by connecting the new shoulder point to the hem — not the lowered armscye. As with the other drafts, when the side seam is sewn, it is sewn from the marked underarm to hem.
This simple change makes a huge difference. No longer is there any side seam shaping. My real concern is the amount of ease added between bust and hip. This put’s us into pillow-case garment territory. Not that it’s entirely bad. For example,
I keep a caftan in my wardrobe. Sometimes two. I like this free-flowing garment as a swim suit coverup and after shower wear. For all the fabric in a caftan, it can be cool when made of light weight cotton. Another free-flowing garment with the same basic shaping is the hip or thigh length caftan.
and it’s another style I want at least one in my closet. I like it for Spring and Fall days that start cool but warm dramatically. Currently, I have a beautiful silk chiffon in this capacity. Unfortunately, it’s only worn 2 or 3 times a year. Multiples would sit unworn in the close and are therefore not desirable–by me.
A 3rd example would be my vests made using New Look 6249.
The basic shape is further modified by a wider neckline and the front edges do not meet. A long rectangular strip is added to the front edges and around the neckline. When worn, the strip is folded around the neck to resemble a shawl collar. I have two 6249 vests made in soft wools. Here is the first one:
My 6249 vests are worn frequently Fall, Winter and Spring. They are perfect 3rd layers — for me. I suppose a lace or gauze could be a nice addition for summer. I hesitate due to my life style. In the summer, I need 3rd layers for overly cooled rooms like the doctors’ offices or the grocery-store freezer section. I need extra warmth in those situations. My other 3rd-layer use during warm-weather is protection from the sun. I will sunburn while sitting in the car. The 6249 vest fails to protect my arms from both cold and sunburn during warm weather. So while a lace/gauze vest might be nice for someone, it’s unlikely to be worn by me. I try to not make garments I won’t wear.
I didn’t feel the need to cut fabric and test Margolis #2. I’m deeply involved in a learning experience of drafting the extended shoulder/cap sleeve and making it attractive on my body. I already have samples of Margolis #2 in my closet. I know the shape it creates. Know the fabrics I like for this shape. Know how a finished garment looks on me. Don’t need to waste fabric or time making yet another sample.
COMPARING THE 3 EXTENDED SHOULDER/CAP SLEEVE DRAFTS
Margolis 1
B&R
Margolis 2
Margolis 1 Alterations: Move Shoulder dart to CB. Add 1/4″ to side seam to offset loss of ease at CB. Extend cap sleeve 5.5″. Lower
underarm 2″ Fit: poor in the back. Possibly this was aggravated or even created by my moving the shoulder dart to CB. Front looks a little large. Cap sleeve is way too tight across my bicep.
B&R Alterations: Back only: Pivot and slide to add 1/2″ ease at underarm though hip using. Raise the shoulder point 3/8″. Extend cap sleeve 5.5″. Lower underarm 2″ Fit: (Note: I did not sew vertical darts either front or back). Back fits better but may still need more width at underarm. Back still wants to puddle above my high, prominent seat. Can be pulled down, but gradually creeps up creating creases at the waist. This could be a fabric issue but more likely I have a ease mismatch. Front again fits nicely even a bit large. Both front and back have vertical drag lines where I would expect to see a set-in sleeve seam. I don’t find it objectionable. OTOH I ‘m not sure if this is par for this type draft, a fabric issue or a fitting error. Sleeves are more comfortable. I would not notice any restriction in a knit fabric but this cotton/poly does bind across my upper arm in front. The cap-sleeve back feels just fine.
Margolis 2 Alterations: Shoulder point raised 3/8″; length extend 5.5″. Drew new side seam by drawing an angled, straight line between new shoulder point and hem. Fit: Did not make sample. I compared the pattern pieces and found it is nearly the same as my Vest 6249. I have caftans and over blouses with very similar shapes. They are loose, unshaped and can be unflattering depending upon length and fabric chosen.
****************************************
FLYPAPER THOUGHTS
I chose to extended the cap 5.5″ after comparing my sloper with the PAS. Comparing pics, the sleeves look very similar but the PAS doesn’t bind and doesn’t have back issues. When
wearing the finished garment from my draft, I feel the sleeve binding although this might not be noticeable if I were using a knit fabric. Also, the binding effect was lessened in the B&R which may be attributable to the 1/2″ ease added at underarm.
I’m extending the shoulder at the same angle as the shoulder. Does it need to be more horizontal? I mean, the new armscye clearly narrows as the shoulder becomes longer. Would a shorter armscye say 3″ instead of 5.5″ be more comfortable or even completely eliminate the binding felt in the sleeve cap? A shoulder line which is perpendicular to the upright CB seam, creates lots of upper back wrinkles in my garments. Even contributes a few to the center back puddle which most people think is a sway back issue. I”m not seeing those wrinkles now. Is it a bad idea to even think of changing the shoulder slope angle?
Also is the 3/8″ raising of the shoulder point set in stone? Can I use say 3/4″ or even more?
One thing drafting does, is make me more aware of why certain styles are the way they are and why they aren’t going to work for me. Having a nice indented waist, I’m very shapely in the back. From back, front and side views, I’m clearly a pear shape. My shoulders are measurably narrower than the standard. (My shoulder length isn’t even listed on any standard women’s measurement charts that I could find). The very straight, mostly up and down side seam of Margolis #2 is often unflattering on me. Knowing that, should I eliminate this possibility as a style choice for me? Or just continue to be very selective in its use?
I searched through my Burda Magazine collection for cap sleeves formed by extending the shoulder. (I didn’t include kimono sleeve styles; or cap sleeves formed by connecting the new shoulder point within the armscye; or set-in cap-sleeves.) In my nearly 17-year collection (spanning 1999 through 2016), the extended shoulder is not often used. Is that because fit is as difficult for others as it has been for me? Or that it is generally unflattering?
I’d think that such simple lines would be easy to fit i.e just get it big enough and use a flowing fabric. I’ve made 2 muslins without solving the restricted movement/binding of my upper arm and I’m still not sure the velcro butt issue is not simply a lack of sufficient ease in the right place (IOW I have plenty of ease but it may be below my hip instead of at the place I need the most ease).
This is frustrating for me because just 3 weeks ago I used the same sloper without any changes to make a perfectly fitting blouse. Try to attach a cap sleeve and I have shoulder, back, hip and sleeve fitting issues.
Adele Margolis wrote that the “…cap should only be deep enough to cover the shoulders. If it’s any deeper, it must be drafted by the regulation kimono-sleeve method.” (Page 398 Draft Your Own Dress Patterns). However her diagrams show proportions very similar to what I used. IOW my pattern piece looks exactly like her diagram. I was perplexed by the conflict between verbiage and illustration but went ahead and followed the illustration. BTW, my sloper is already 1/4″ beyond my shoulder because it includes a seam allowance for sleeves. Extending the shoulder at all seemed to violate her rule of not extending beyond the natural shoulder point. Maybe I should have worked with the much more complicated kimono draft?
I’m not sure how much my ‘narrow’ shoulder is affecting the cap sleeve draft. I have to adapt for narrow, sloping and uneven shoulders. It get’s to be much. Sometimes.
I had problems locating the instructions for this type sleeve because I was looking for ‘extended shoulder’. I really don’t think of this as a cap sleeve. To me, the ‘cap sleeve’ designation belongs to something else. But when I Googled ‘cap sleeve’ many pictures were returned with every imaginable shoulder line/sleeve that didn’t use the natural shoulder’s edge as the end of the garment shoulder. This is one of those times when I find it extremely frustrating that we don’t use words as they are defined. We keep expanding definitions and using old words to mean something new. Frustrating because I’m looking for a specific answer. Couldn’t find it with the term I was taught and found too much that didn’t apply when looking for what is now the common term. i.e. couldn’t find what I wanted when I looked for ‘extended shoulder’ found too much when I look for ‘cap sleeve’. Of course, I could be wrong. Just because my early teachers, peers and relatives said this was an ‘extended shoulder’ doesn’t mean I’m correct.
The real question is, where do I go from here? I started this journey because I couldn’t fit CLD’s YED vest. I know of 3 CLD patterns with very similar appearing shoulder lines (the Pure and Simple Shell PAS, Your Everyday Drifter vest YED and the Relax A Little top RAL). With some work, the PAS now fits. I think I’m close on a YED type top. Should I make a stab at a RAL now or solve the YED issues first? Should I quit playing with the extended shoulder and start where Louise Cutting does (the kimono draft)? There’s also the in-armscye cap sleeve whose draft I haven’t explored at all but I’ve made a very Burda versions and liked them very much. I do like the cap sleeve very much. I think it helps visually balance my narrow shoulders with my hips. Much to my regret, the extended shoulder was shunned by fashion for many years. I remember seeing it everywhere when I was a child. It seemed very feminine and flattering on my aunts and older cousins. Perhaps nostalgia is clouding my memory but I know the extended shoulder/cap sleeve is a more flattering design line for me. .. ah time to think…
I traced a new copy of my sloper including all its darts and notches. Left the back shoulder dart in place. Stylistically, I’d prefer a back cut on fold with no darts. Fit wise, I’ll be happier with all the darts. I extended the shoulder point 5.5″ (just like the previous draft) and marked the side seam for a 2″ lowered underarm. This time I followed Barnfield & Richards “Pattern Making Primer” instructions to raise the orignal shoulder point 3/8″ before drawing the cap sleeve lines (gold wedge in back diagram). It gives the shoulder line an unusual up then down slant. I think I’ve seen a similar arc on CLD patterns. Make no mistake here, I’m not copying her draft. Louise has said very plainly, several times, that her draft is developed from the kimono shoulder/sleeve. Those instructions are vastly different from what I’m doing here. I do see the similarity with CLD’s draft in the final pattern pieces but, trust me, they are not the same.
I carefully reviewed my pics from the Margolis draft and am convinced that this extended shoulder is going to need more room at the back hip. I’m puzzled by this and quite certain it is the extended shoulder creating this issue. I’ve both taken measurements recently and used my woven sloper from which this extended shoulder pattern is developed. Since the woven sloper fit, it must have to do with the current changes. I also saw tightness on the back at the armscye. Tightness not echoed on the front. So my second change was to use the pivot and slide method to add 1/2″ at the side seam and hip. (Red shape along the side in the back diagram ). The armscye area typical for sleeved/sleeveless styles is automatically filled and becomes the cap sleeve during sewing.
My sloper includes seam allowances but not hems so my final alteration added 1.25″ to the length (bronze/gold at the hem).
Back pattern piece
On the front pattern piece, I raised the shoulder point 3/8″, extended it 5.5″ and dropped the armscye 2″. I also added 1.25″ at the hem. I did not add additional ease at the side seam and of course, the bust dart must still be sewn.
My fabric choice is a cotton-voile with paisley print. My button is a shiny thing that the crow in me couldn’t leave in the store. Came in a mixed package of 1/2″ and 3/4″ buttons. Never thought I’d use any of them, but as I spread out buttons on my fabric for evaluation, it became clear that the 1/2″ was the most attractive combination. It neither overpowered (as the 3/4″ did) nor disappeared into the print ( as many other buttons did.)
I opted not to sew any of the vertical darts but did serge finish and make my stitch length 3.mm for easy removal.
From the first fitting to the final, the front looked pretty nice:
I’m not too concerned by the few bubbles. Cotton voile tends to cling rather than slide off the body. I did a search on Google for “Cap Sleeves”. To my surprise most cap sleeves shown are separate sleeves sewn into the armscye which would eliminate most of my issues. The few cap sleeves I found that were in-one with the armscye showed the same vertical wrinkle from shoulder point to underarm as seen on my own garment. I remember this same wrinkle on my aunts and older cousins way back when cap sleeves were popular (the 50’s). I think this may be typical of the extended shoulder. Personally, I don’t object to it. I’m just not sure it’s a fitting issue or if it’s supposed to be there.
After Fit 01,
Fit01
I added a 3.5″ vent at the side seam hem. I wasn’t sure if I was looking at a fit issue or if I was experiencing velcro-butt due to the cotton voile.
Final and WEARABLE
I thought it was the voile, but the final, with vent, is clearly nicer fitting. I don’t really understand why I would need almost 2″ additional ease across the hip, but that’s on the list for the next version.
I was more concerned with the wrinkles emanating from the underarm which are more clear in the side view:
Apparently, I also need more that 1″ additional ease across the back at the underarm. I wonder how high up the ease needs to be made. Returning to view the back pattern piece
I see that little ease was added to the back above the waist. Do I need more? Instead of pivot and slide, should I have evenly added 1/2″ ease along the entire side seam? Somehow the front and back shoulder length must be equaled. Do I ease the back to the front? It already has a 1/4″ shoulder dart which removed a total of 1/2″ length from the back shoulder.
I thought this would be another test and probably Goodwill donation. However I’m pretty happy with the final garment. Think I’m going to add a few weights to the back hem and wear it for this summer. However, I’m not done with cap sleeve drafting. This is real progress but I know of one other procedure for this type cap sleeve and a very different in-one-with-armscye cap sleeve draft that I also want to work with before moving on to something else sewing.
A quick thank you to my commentators who suggested I spend time looking on the web at other versions of CLD patterns. I didn’t stop with the Flickr collection. I looked across the web studying sewing projects that used CLD patterns but didn’t post on Flickr; and then started looking at any and all cap sleeve garments I could find including RTW. Perhaps I am too hard on myself and an over-fitting this style.
I did not want to do this.
I did not want to draft the cap sleeve/extended shoulder garment. I don’t mind making changes to sleeve length or adding details like cuffs, plackets or gathers. However, I don’t like to mess with the armscye or sleeve cap. But I’m having so little success achieving my desired fit with extended shoulder garments, that no longer I feel there is another option. I must draft my own pattern or eliminate the extended shoulder from my wardrobe. With that in mind, I pulled out two books I’m particularly fond of, (1) Adele Margolis’ “Make your Own Dress Patterns” and (2) Barnfield & Richards “Pattern Making Primer” There are a number of procedural differences between the two books. Differences that can make a big impact on the final garment. I decided to start with the simpler instructions Adele provided. I hasten to add, Adele starts with a simpler procedure but suggests numerous options. So while Adele provides the most simple instructions for starters, she also provides ample suggestions for more complex/sophisticated styling
I traced the front and back of my woven, sleeved sloper transferring all the markings and darts. I moved the shoulder dart to the center back; lowered the underarm 1″ (by marking the side seam 1″ below the armscye); then extended the shoulder 5.5″. A number I derived by measuring my beloved and fitted Pure and Simple Shell (a CLD pattern). I drew a line from the new underarm (determined when I marked 1″ below the existing armscye) to the extended shoulder point (that 5.5″ tick extended from the original shoulder point). I stared at tissue for a while and then decided I needed to add any ease lost across the hip when the shoulder dart was moved to center back. I added 1/4″ to the side seam. In the pic below, the original pattern is traced in blue. The Orange lines denote the changes.
Orange lines- changes Blue lines Original pattern
OK, that’s a little less clear that I’d like. I’d took the pic into Embird and outlined the changes made.
Note that moving the dart to the CB, removed a wedge from neckline to hem. The armscye is filled in as is the hem and 1/4″ along the side seam between underarm and hem. Harder to see, but it’s there, the underarm has been lowered 1″. The front is very similar, except it retained the horizontal bust dart and I did not add the 1/4″ ease along the side seam.
I’ve had this rayon, plain weave fabric at least 15 years, maybe more. It was a Walmart find ($1/yard) but the color never seemed to work with anything else in my closet. The fabric has sat in my stash for eons loved for color and fiber but never quite right for the project at hand. A possibly wearable, test garment seemed the perfect use. When I traced the front sloper, I added the button band; noted the center front and copied all the notches and darts before repeating the cap sleeve addition. Slightly optimistic, I also noted on my pattern my favorite neckline depths of 6,7 and 8″. Again, the original tracing is done in blue. Changes are in orange.
My sloper includes my preferred seam allowances but not hem. Ergo, I added 1.25″ length to front and back.
After threading my serger and sewing machine, I lightly starched my fabric, laid out my pattern pieces and cut. I trimmed my neckline (1/2″ on the back; 8″ deep in front; and both 1/2″ at neck). Planning a bias finish for the back neckline, I created my front facing by aligning my front piece on the fabric and cutting around it. I serge finished all edges before stitching back and bust darts. Undecided as to how much fitting could take place at this point, I joined sides and shoulders with a 3 mm length stitch i.e. easily ripped but would do for a permanent finish. I slipped my blouse on and pinned the center fronts together.
I was surprised at how tight the sleeve felt and noted the side-view drag-lines also indicating tightness under the arm. However, the front didn’t look that bad to me (especially after what I’ve seen on the web called ‘wonderful’); and the hem is level i.e. not swinging forward or assuming a high-low position. I’ll save discussion of the back for later when I’ll compare Fit 01 to the finished garment.
I ripped the side seam open and formed a 2″ deep underarm. This did not please me as it is only 1″ above the bust dart. I prefer a little more coverage in that area. With notable lack-of-enthusiasm, I finished the garment. Hemmed. Button and buttonholes. Whole nine yards DONE. If I can’t/won’t wear it; ready for donation.
There’s a strong possibility I should have tried it on after ‘lowering the armscye’ and then quit i.e. left it for later or binned. However, I’ve got 3 WIPs and 2 UFOs already in the closet. I didn’t want to add another and I wasn’t ready to trash a perfectly lovely fabric. Mostly due to lack of enthusiasm for a project that would probably be donated, I didn’t apply the thought and care needed when finishing. I rapidly stitched a machine blind hem and really hosed the buttonholes. I placed them on the center front. Buttons go on the center front line. Buttonholes go on the other side — at least 1/8.” Nonetheless it’s done. Ready to be donated, cute buttons and all.
I don’t think the ‘finished’ pics look as good as the Fit 01 pics. During final pics, I didn’t notice my neckline sitting oddly on one side. The sleeve feels better but still binds in front above my bicep. I’m stunned by how the front hem is now both swinging forward and rising. Was it buttoning? or something else? The back fared — um — somewhat better. Fit 01 is the first; Finished next.
Fit 01Finished
I think it was a mistake to move the shoulder dart to the center back without creating a center back seam. The move trimmed off much needed ease from both the hip and upper back areas. Adding 1/4″ to the side seam did not compensate for the loss along CB.
I’ve hung this blouse on a hanger but it’s still sitting in my sewing room. I’m not sure I want to wear it as-is and don’t know how to fix my issues. I mean, it’s too late for those buttonholes. They’re in the wrong place and they’re staying there. More ease under the arms? Would require a gusset. Ditto for more ease across the hip. Honestly, I think I should just take stock and move on to the next test garment. I’m glad I used that fabric. I prefer to use my rayons for wearable garments. But after 15 or more years, just using it is a good thing.
sdBev Block Party 
