I’ve had this pattern, Bresnan Studios 145…
… for 2 or 3 years. I bought it specifically for the cowl which is a separate piece. Most cowl blouses have incorporated the cowl into the neckline of the pattern. Makes sense but it also makes the blouse require more fabric. The BSS145 cowl can actually be cut from a completely different fabric which would lessen the amount of fabric even more. Which would make it excellent choice for those “whoops not enough fabric” situations. The tunic itself, is a basic T-shirt with short flutter sleeves. Bresnan Studios.com is closed, sigh, but the patterns are still available in her etsy shop. I believe her original intention was to develop a pattern line of women’s clothing in which all the parts would be interchangeable. Great idea, and similar to Peggy Sager’s (Silhouette Patterns) original thought, but didn’t seem to really take off.
This pattern has languished in my stash a few years. I’m always intending to make it but struggling so much with fit that I didn’t get to it. I pulled it out this week because I’m seeing so many cowl neck garments for sale. They are even starting to show up on my rural-casual friends. I think it’s trending! So, I pulled it out and then said “Crap. Have to fit a whole new pattern. At least it doesn’t have any weird pieces to fuss with.” Then I thought, why fit yet another T-shirt? So I pulled out Silhouette Patterns 195, the Sweater Set (and Peggy’s own favorite). SP195 has become my goto basic knit top. I’m using SP195 so much that this and future posts in which 195 is utilized be at my Block Party blog.
The tissue stage of my project is very short. I folded out the sheet of 195, traced the collar
also traced the front and back neckline with a little of the shoulder and armscye to make my template(s).
I pulled out 195 front, back and slim sleeve pieces. I place them on my fabric (a shiny polyester knit). I trace the neckline of 195 with a purple pen but cut the rest of the front and back. Removed the pattern pieces and placed the BSS145 front and back necklines on my fabric roughly aligned with my the traced neckline. I goofed here, so please learn from my mistake. The front shoulder/neckline needs to be cut wider than the back because the collar will fill in part of the front shoulder/neckline. I offset both front and back about 1/2″.
It is a fairly easy and common construction. The pieces are cut. Front darts stitched and the cowl stitched into the front neckline. Back is cut (for me it needs a CB seam to accommodate my round back alteration) and a back neck facing is finished and attached. The cowl is tucked at specified points (be sure to transfer all the notches from the pattern pieces); then front and back shoulders are aligned; the back neck facing folded around the shoulder sandwich and then the shoulders stitched. If done correctly, the shoulders are inverted and you have a lovely smooth neckline inside and out. Trouble for me is I can rarely align the sandwich correctly and achieve the smooth neckline. After 3 tries on only one shoulder, I gave up and aligned front with back shoulder; added a little SAS to hold it in place and then stitched following by serge finishing the shoulder seams. I like to ensure the shoulder seam stays hidden; so I fold and press that seam in position and secure it with a tack stitch. I do this nicely. It isn’t obnoxious, but it is visible.
The rest of the construction typical and easy T-shirt, i.e. insert sleeves, stitch side seams; stitch hems. Oh but I goofed again. I did not test my coverstitch before zipping through the hems. They had to be ripped out which is an agonizing 45 minute job compared to the 7 or so minutes putting the hems in. I tested before trying again, but this fabric would not cooperate. It insisted upon tunneling and gathering. I think this is the first fabric I could not tame through adjusting tensions and adding WSS. I top stitched 2 lines to simulate cover stitching. Then discovered that the 30% stretch this fabric tested at, was not enough. My knit top was definitely too tight across back and biceps. OK this is why I make 1/2″ seam allowances. I rip out the side seam/sleeve stitching and serge the seams adding 1″ to the body and 1/2″ to the biceps. But got to tell you if this poly happens to shrink at all, this top will have a short life span. BUT that isn’t the worse. The knit is rumpled during wear. Sat mouth-watering on the shelf. Hung beautifully on the hanger. On my body, Yuck! Well I’ve had this problem before. Nice slick camisole takes care of it. NOT THIS TIME:
UGLY! It’s the fabric. I’ve made this pattern several times. I have had to manage ease. Did have an issue with sleeves. All solved. The pattern is a keeper. I’m just glad I don’t have any other cuts in my stash. It’s the kind of fabric you can’t even use for muslins because ‘the read’ will not be true. I told DH I wouldn’t wear it unless I could cover it with a vest or something.
But it’s not a total failure. I love the cowl. I have a template for future use. I understand how to cut the associated pieces and construct. I have visions of style changes to the cowl. Because it is the separate piece, it is malleable and transferable. So the garment is a failure, but the pattern a success!
sdBev Block Party 