I’m using a fabric of unknown origin and age. I just flat don’t remember. It’s been in my stash a while because there is only 1.75 yards of 36″ wide — let me repeat– thirty-six inches wide fabric. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen 36″ wide fabric in the stores or even on the net. I’m also unsure of the fiber content. It burns like a cotton or other natural fibers but it has sort of a scratchy, nappy texture. For me, wool has a distinctive aroma. I can detect as little as 10% wool in a blend. I don’t get even a whiff of wool. It is not like any linen or cotton I’ve ever handled. The threads are fine yet the fabric is very firm, almost stiff and fuzzy. Presses easily and resists wrinkles (very unlike linen). It promises to be cool and comfy for summer.
My Echo Look is on vacation. Well probably broke. I’m having to make do with my camera. The odd angle of the hem is probably the result of how I rotated the pic.
Silhouette Patterns 575 is rapidly becoming a favorite because of its adaptability. This time Instead of using a seam at center-back of the yoke (to accommodate my rounded back), I extended the lower bodice 1″ at the top of the CB. Then I trimmed the seam allowance from the yoke and straighten the CB so that it could be placed on the fold. I reasoned that my RBA only adds length to the back. Previously, before knowing about an RBA, I lengthened CB at the hem. That improves the appearance insofar as the back hem is level instead of rising but doesn’t have an effect at the shoulder level. Peggy said it in at least one of broadcasts, a dart or other change has a limited area of effectivenesa. So true. I found placing the extra length between the shoulders not only adds length at the hem but also eliminates wrinkles pointing to the shoulder and the uncomfortable tendency of tops to pull backward. Trouble with adding length at the top of the lower bodice is that I am depending upon the drape and weight of the fabric to pull the garment down and comfortably enfold the body. But with this fabric, the back developed a bit of a poof.
The fabric has just a bit too much body to drape nicely. It feels comfortable. Only in the pics can I tell it’s not exactly what I wanted. I’ve used this alteration before with other patterns but much more drapey fabric. The poof didn’t happen then so I am pretty sure it is the fabric. I question as to whether the fabric will soften with wear and laundry. I’ve decided to run it through the wash several times before adding darts in the back. Oh and I will be adding a note on my pattern that this variation works best in soft drapey fabrics.
Please note, I do not have to put embroidery on everything. This time I chose to use contrasting top stitching and buttons. I had a brief email exchange with my sewing angel and then perused my Pinterest boards for color ideas before sitting down at the sewing machine and testing several different colors of thread on a scrap of fabric using my triple straight stitch.
My final color choice was based on the matching turquoise buttons in my stash. (Interesting buttons are few and far between. Better to stash buttons and then select from the stash.)
Here’s a funny. I put all that effort and thought into color choice and then when I did my top stitching, I didn’t change thread i.e. my top stitching matched my garment. Disappointed, I mucked around for a few minutes and then began testing the decorative stitches built-in my Dream Machine. I still wanted something narrow, but I wanted it to cover the triple stitch (I had no intention of ripping that out!) My final choice is what passes for a chain stitch on a sewing machine
If you go looking for this stitch on your machine, it is a triangle. Successive repeats are slightly overlapped. It is not a chain stitch, but close enough.
The back poof is not the only place this fabric bit me. To my horror the front facing which I’ve previously used 3 times did not fit. It stuck out at the shoulders and into the armscye.
I’m not running around with that sticking out. I carefully smoothed it in place and then joined to my blouse using the blind hem stitch.
After which,I cut away the excess using a pinking blade.
As you can see in the pics earlier in this post, that worked. It just bothers me that it happened. I drafted the facing pattern with the first version. Have used the same pattern piece successfully twice. Why was it off this time? Because I have used the facing pattern before, I’m blaming the fabric not altering the tissue.
Not shown but I did put my Brother 2340CV to work. I used him, all 3 needles, to top stitch the hem and yokes in matching thread. It makes a lovely finish. Maybe next time, I will turn the armscyes and cover stitch them instead of using bias binding.
sdBev Block Party 