I decided another summer version of the Linda was in order. I would prefer not to cut the neckline down on-the-fly every time I use this pattern but I also want to be able to make collared versions when Fall approaches. My solution is to copy the yoke and the front. Label the previous yoke and front “collared”. Label the new yoke and front “Summer/Not Collared” and trim 1/2″ from the neck edge. So I wouldn’t be hunting through a big over stuffed envelope, I gave the collared and no collared versions each their very own.
I wanted to use Angela’s easy placket conversion which she shares in the video HOW TO ALTER FOR BUTTONS & SEW A BUTTON HOLE . This change is really easy and does not require a pattern alteration. Just a different stay-stitching line. Stitching the placette is the same easy process as the placket shown on the envelope.
Except, I had fabric issues. I am again using a cotton crinkle. I interfaced behind the planned plackette and stay stitched. I thought all was good. I mean the first blouse was also a cotton crinkle. It was purchased at the same time same place. Had the same fiber content. Same cost. I used the same interfacing. But this time the bottom of the plackette stretched out. I had a big, ugly lump. When I removed the stitching I could see that the “crinkle” had flattened probably when I fused the interfacing. Using a basting stitch, I gathered the plackette lower edge. Stitched again but had 1 wonky corner. I removed only the offending bits around the offensive corner and carefully hand-stitched. I try to use my machine for everything. But sometimes, I have to finesse it by hand. I think the placket looks fine. (PS I Frey Checked the hand stitching.)
The way Angela designed and drafted this pattern makes it so easy. I installed the plackette, added buttonholes and buttons and serge finished the sides before turning up a narrow shirt-tail hem in front.
Having fought with the plackete, I was suspicious of this fabric. I block fused an area bigger than my yoke before cutting it out. Once again, I set the serger differential to 1.5 and serged yoke to front along shoulders. I do envision doing more with that area in the future. I think pin-tucks would look very nice as well as other pleats and perhaps a bit of inserted trim. This version, I merely top stitched.
Originally, I planned to never button the top button. My idea was the bottom button would provide me a little modesty and I would let the top flop open. I could see right away that was going to look yucky.
I couldn’t think of a very nice neckline finish. I didn’t want to use the bias-tape finish of my first Linda. I wanted something that would be seen as being nice. Is a collar really the only way to professionally finish this type plackette/neck edge? Wouldn’t mind some suggestions, especially if they come with tutorials. I plan to use this pattern over and over. For this version I cut a 1.5″ wide bias strip of the garment fabric; stitched strip and garment right sides together; flipped and pressed the strip to the inside before top-stitching a scant inch away from the neck edge.
Looks nice on the outside too.
With the neckline at least finished, I cut the back and serged it to the yoke back before top stitching as above. Once again, serge finish the sides and stitch a shirt tail hem. Other than the plackette, this is going together f-a-s-t.
I wanted to add a cap sleeve. Wanted to see how it looked with this style. I am so narrow at the shoulder and wide at the hip that a cap sleeve can be an important visual-balance tool. Making a cap sleeve was easier than sin. I traced the top of the sleeve between notches. Made a copy which was sliced and spread along the lower edge (I wanted a little flare.) Added 1/2″ hem allowance and BOOM! Flouncy, cap sleeve pattern ready. Installing this type sleeve is simplicity itself. Hem first; then align the cap sleeve with the armscye back and front marking; stitch together. I serged. From one edge of the underarm across the sleeve to the other underarm edge. Turn and stitch along the underarm area without the sleeve is all that is needed for a finish. I was into top stitching at the time and top stitched all the way across which secured both underarm and sleeve and made me a little proud of myself.
Stitch the side seams; quick press and I am ready to share my Linda II:
I think I want to shorten the back hem–bring up the whole curve. Not really a fan of it being that long. Otherwise, I think I like my Linda II.
HOW TO ALTER FOR BUTTONS & SEW A BUTTON HOLE . Absolutely easiest front button placket. Requires collar for clean finish.
How to Sew A Lacosta Neckline .. Slightly different from Angela’ s procedure. Provides a clean finish with either collar or binding.