I thought what I needed was to restore the darts that run under the bust dart, across side back across the other side and terminate beneath the other bust dart; then sleeve testing. Can you imagine how upset I felt when adding the dart which cleans up all the little divots you see above, caused the deep diagonal at the bust to return?
I hope it was the front dart and removed it but left the back in place. As you can see above, the back dart still affects the front pull lines. No had to remove the entire dart, front, side, back, side front. That’s the only way to eliminate the pull lines at the side seam+bust.
I cut and added sleeves. I wanted to know if the back was too wide. I keep looking at it and thinking it’s just a smidge wide. But then I think, no a blouse WITH sleeves would need a little more room across the back. My other question concerns the armscye total length. Through pinching the shoulder, adding the front dart and pinching under the arm, I’ve removed 1-7/8 length. My alteration instructions all say that when you tamper with the armscye, you need to restore it. I’m conflicted because this armscye sits about 1″ below my underarm. If it were a knit, I’d want to raise it at least 1/2″.
If this were to be non-stretch sleeveless, I’d want snug it up to my body which would reduce length even more. So the point now was to find out, if the back is too tight and how the armscye felt when the sleeve is inserted.
In pics below the sleeve on my right side was inserted without any changes to the sleeve cap. That side does still suffer with the not-totally-corrected lower-shoulder. The sleeve had to be ease to fit. I didn’t do a very good job. I kind of don’t care what it looks like. Just that it’s sewn well enough to determine comfort.
I lowered the cap 5/8″ for the sleeve inserted on the left. I left the front armscye dart unsewn but still had to be ease sleeve into armscye (and I didn’t do a real good job with the left either). I didn’t struggle with the easing and I like how the sleeve and shoulder are level as opposed to the poof of the right. That doesn’t mean I don’t occasionally like and use the poofier sleeve.
Even though the back looks good, I’d rather have used a stretch woven. The back is just a bit tight; and here I thought it would be too wide. Both armscyes feel good. I also prefer the appearance of the left side sleeve but I’m keeping in mind that the right might be better if the lower, right-shoulder was fitted. The left just seems to hang better. Sometimes I think it’s not just that my right shoulder is lower but that the arm is attached a little differently. Like a slightly different angle? I really wanted to clean up the final drape lines on the front, but I prefer this to the drag lines radiating from the bust. Unless I get smarter in the future, I’ve decided to accept and like this near perfect fit and quit worrying about perfection. This is close enough to be usable.
Some after thoughts. I transferred the last changes back to the tissue including lowering the sleeve cap. Made a note about extra ease across the back for non-stretch wovens. Since the only discomfort is the back when sleeves are attached, I’m not changing the armscye and sleeve cap further, though I did make a note to leave the dart unsewn for sleeves. I may work a little more with the sleeve and armscye, if I get smarter.
This new sloper contains so many possibilities. It has places marked for shoulder, armscye, bust, back and front waist. My current plan is to rapidly trace the sloper, rotate darts are desired, add necklines and other changes as they occur to me on the fly. It’s also good for fitting commercial patterns. Just need to keep in mind that the remaining drag lines in the sloper are probably going to reappear in the new pattern as well. I’m looking forward to making a knit sloper and later on sleeveless styles. For now, it’s just a relief to once again have a usable-although not perfect-sloper.
Psst — I still need to correct the lower shoulder and I can’t guarantee I won’t be back making more fitting slopers in the future. This is good, but I think I can do better.