CS2017: Fitting Day 1

I was overly pessimistic about the ease. Initially my sloper flared like a tent from underarm to hem. Off. Stitch side seams deeper. On. Repeat 3 times and a female shape emerged from the tent. As I worked on fitting I continued to increase the side seams 1/8″ at a time until they were 1-7/8″ deep, I could have stitched even  closer.

Connie has about a 7-step fitting procedure starting at the shoulder slope.  I started there last year (correcting my shoulder slope).  Front and back sloper were different but then the rest of my fitting issues practically disappeared on their own.  This year the first thing I noticed is that the apex was below my own almost  a half-inch. The first correction I did was remove the zipper and make a 1/4″ deep tuck  at cross front. Then the line was riding just a little high –on top of the curvature. That may be within tolerances but I prefer the balance line bisect my curvature. I left it for now but made a note to change the amount to 3/8″ when transferring to tissue.  Didn’t need to do that because….

I returned to Connie’s first step (correcting shoulder slope) by pinching the shoulder at the armscye to remove the gaping. This did not go well or quickly. I made multiple pinches checking in the mirror and sometimes stopping to take and examine pix.  In trying to correct the shoulder slope the front and back neck would start gaping. Then front shoulders slid towards the back and then towards the front. The apex that was too low?  Migrated up and down. After 2 hours, I said, “This isn’t the answer. Or at least not all of it.”  I looked carefully at the pix and realized the CB was saying “I want length.”


I don’t see where this is discussed in Connie’s instructions.  Maybe I’m reading too quickly?? But I do recognize the phenom and was expecting to address it at some point.  Now seemed like the time. I cut the Cross Back from below shoulder dart across to the other shoulder dart and basted a strip of fabric just above the cut. I spread the cut open a  1/4″. It helped but did not remove all the bowing, so I open the cut  1/2″. Much better.  I added small darts front and back at armscye just under the shoulder. Nicer still.


Except both back and front had developed these, pooches:



I  liked the back, even with its new pooch

Before RBA —————————After RBA

There are considerably fewer drag lines coming off the cross back. However, other than the apex moving to the correct position (as a result of back changes not the front tuck), the front remains about the same.



I think the back should have been split all the way to the seam allowance instead of just under the darts.  I’m not sure that would have helped the front. By this point I’d ripped and stitched the zipper  yet a 3rd time.  In addition to that stress,  I had taped the neckline and armscye rather than basting. The adhesive was not strong enough and the tapes came loose in several spots.   Not knowing exactly what went wrong, I opted to open all the seams, spritz with a little starch and start again on on Day 2


2 thoughts on “CS2017: Fitting Day 1

  1. Did you watch P Sagers last night? I just watched it this am. She talks about fitting at the shoulder, shoulder pads, etc. I forgot exactly what she said but if the armhole gaps there’s a problem with the bust sizing and she showed another horizontal dart. For my round back I stood against a wall – used a ruler from the base of my neck to the wall – 7″ – I went down 7in on CB and added 3/4 of an inch. I achieved a beautiful fit – but – I always add a back seam allowance – even in knits.


    1. I did. I watched Peggy. My mind tends to wander as she talks on. Had to watch again this morning. I can see that working really well if I was making a princess seam like she was or empire line. Which maybe that’s what I should be doing? Instead of trying to fit this round body with 3 flat pieces of fabric?




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