Lesson 11 Sloper Design Options
Somethings I do for fun. Just to see. Creating the Knit Sloper is something I’m dead serious about. I did not expect this to be ‘the one’. I’m seriously concerned about the incorrect personal levels and circumferences. Until I correct those in Muslin 4 I can’t make the real sloper. I can however familiarize myself with the process and maybe go into making the final sloper with a bit of confidence.
Before we get to the knit sloper, Suzy talks about simple options for changing the sloper and a few guidelines of which to be aware. I took note of only a few
- If you extend the shoulder, extend the cross front/back half the amount before redrawing the armscye.
- Easy way to add jacket and coat ease: cut open the sloper along the princess line and separate 1/4, 3/4 or 1/2″
- The Waist Shaping if needed for fitted garments otherwise there will be a wrinkle around the waist. On loose garments just ignore.
- Sloper storage
- Convert your slopers to tag or other durable media.
- Then punch a hole (industry uses a Pattern/Rabbit punch) and hang with Pattern Hooks.
For me, the most important part of Lesson 11 was converting the Close Fitting Woven Sloper into a Knit Sloper. Taking copious notes, I watched the lesson first. I started creating the sloper; stopped and ran the video as I was making the specified changes. I’m totally unhappy with the resulting sloper:
I used a green permanent marker to draw the final lines. You can still see some of the pencil lines. Over all the knit sloper should be about 1″ shorter and have negative ease. Exactly how much negative ease Suzy didn’t specify. I think its a combination of your desired fit and the amount the fabric stretches. I promise, I carefully watched took notes and then watched again as I made the changes. I’ve gotten a routine down where I can stop the video immediately. Unfortunately on my IPAD the 30sec replay is missing and rewinding is guess-work with lots of rewatching.
The side seams horrified me. I know part of this is my shape. I have very little waist indention in the front, while the back needs a deeper dart. I often make 2 darts on the back and 3 sometimes on pants. Nonetheless, the deeply indented waist on the back compared with hardly a hint of front waist stunned me. I thought it wouldn’t walk (front and back side seam would be the same length). It did, by swinging the paper back and forth sharply. Being intended for knits, I suppose it will stitch together somewhat easier than walk. Still I doubt that it will hang smoothly from the waist down.
The armscyes are another horror. This sloper is for knit garments. The armscye will be big enough to fit around my belly. Obviously, I’ve misunderstood the directions. Twice. Which fills me with horror. I used to pride myself on the ability to read and follow directions. Apparently I don’t do well at all at watching videos and following directions.
Even as I was following the instructions, I was uncomfortable with the negative ease being developed. I want a knit outer garment to smoothly flow over my curves in a very similar way to my woven garment. I’m not interested in revealing all my bits and bots. The only negative-ease garments in my wardrobe are tights and other underwear.
Unless I learn something new from the book, it’s doubtful that I will develop my personal knit sloper from Suzy’s directions. I like far better Gayle’s suggestion to develop the knit sloper from the moulage. Makes more sense then upsizing to a woven sloper and downsizing to the knit.
Watch the video lesson first. Don’t take my notes below and run with them. You will have missed important choices. Besides, based on the results above, I’m not sure I understood what I should have done.
DRAFTING A KNIT SLOPER
Nearly the same steps are done front and back. Instead of listing them twice, I’m annotating “Front” which means do this to front only.
- Trace the woven sloper
- Remove Waist Shaping
- Neck down 1/2″ at CB/CF
- High Neck point down 1/2″
- End of shoulder down 1/4″
- Redraw neck and shoulder
- Move Shoulder Dart to armscye
- FRONT: REMOVE ARMSCYE DART
- 1 leg of armscye dart
- 1 leg of bust dart
- Slide armhole dart close
- Fill in empty bust dart.
- FRONT: REMOVE BUST DART
- Measure new bust dart width
- Mark the same distance up from low hip at side seam as the new bust dart width
- Redraw Low hip starting from Mid want on the Low Hip to the Mark just made.
- Low hip is no longer a straight line
Continuing with Back and front directions
- Move waist dart to side seam
- Develop negative ease at armscye
- Starting at shoulder
- Mark 1/2″ along armscye but leave the original under arm
- 1/2″ good for jersey/double knits 3/4″ better for slinky
- Redraw armscye (22:37 in video) meeting original underarm
- Starting at original underarm, come in 1/2″ all along the modified side seam
- modified though moving waist dart and armscye/bust dart on front
- Raise the High Hip 1/2″
- Fold out 1/2″ between waist and High Hip
- Smooth that curve
Back is done. Cut it out.
- Align back on front at underarm and new hem.
- Trace the side seam
- Mark the new waist notch to correspond with the back waist notch
- True back and front shoulders, armscye and neck connections
- Trace front and back to tag
- Add numbers, any remarks
- Label with date and “KNIT”
- Also helps to trace the Knit sloper onto different color paper.