Lesson 8: Making the Moulage into a Sloper

I think there’s still room for improvement in the fit of my moulage. I am already planning to make Moulage 4 when I get Suzy’s book which will be sometime next week or even early the following. I don’t want to cut any more fabric until I’m sure I’m starting with the right measurements taken at the right levels.  Also having already seen how confusing this process can be I decided ‘dry runs’ could be in order for the other lessons as well.  I’m continuing with Lesson 8 Drafting the Bodice Sloper which is the process of turning the moulage into a close-fitting woven sloper.

Instead of trying to make the changes while Suzy was talking, I sat in my easy chair and took notes. My notes below  are the abbreviated “Cliff Notes” (if I’m allowed to use that phrase).  I wouldn’t recommend using my list without viewing and understanding the lesson. My notes are not in the exact same order as Suzy talks. Such as I redraw the back neckline as soon as the neck and shoulder points are plotted.  Suzy redrew the back neckline at the very end when she was rechecking to see if she had forgotten anything.  Besides that, she often points out choices or decisions to make now that depend upon choices made when drafting the moulage. Suzy’s instructions are for everyone. I’m not making a list for everyone.  I’m making a list so I can speed through making my personal sloper. Some of the things I’ve chosen and written down may not apply to you or may be the wrong choice for you.

*****

These steps produce a CLOSE FITTING FRONT

Trace Moulage in Pencil

  • Front Neckline
    • Lower at CF  3/8″
    • Move high neckline point over 1/4″‘
    • Re draw neckline
  • Shoulder (5″)
    • extend 1/4″
    •  raise 1/16″
    • Redraw shoulder
    • Center dart over new shoulder line
  • ARMSCYE, BUST DART AND SIDE SEAM
    • Extend Cross Front width 1/8″
    • Bust Guide Line
      • at armscye measure down and mark 3/4″
      • square a line from that mark to the CF
    • Increase evenly along side from new Bust GL to New Low Hip: 1/2″
    • Bust dart extend to new side seam maintaining 1″ width.  (doesn’t get wider just longer)
    • Redraw armscye
      • at underarm base draw a straight line 1/2″ from side seam inward begin armscye here
      • at shoulder draw straight line down 1″
  • Waist line dart
    • Bottom vanishing Point
      • Raise  to High Hip line
      • Redraw legs eliminating bow
    • Top Vanishing Point
      • Lower 3/4″ (to the new Bust GL)
      • Redraw legs eliminating bow
  • Armhole dart
    • Mirror toward the underarm
    • Redraw legs
  • Finish SHOULDER DART
    • Redraw legs to new Bust Line.

These steps produce a CLOSE FITTING BACK

  • BACK NECK
    • CB Down 1/8″
    • Out at high neck point  1/4″
    • Redraw neckline
  • SHOULDER
    • Extend  1/4″ at armscye
    • Raise 1/16″
    • Redraw shoulder line
    • Center dart on new shoulder line
  • CROSS BACK extend 1/4″
  • BUST GUIDE LINE
    • At armscye mark down 3/4″
    • Square with CB
    • Redraw Bust GL
  • BACK SHAPING – ELIMINATE
    • Note on sloper in case a more fitted back is desired.
  • WAIST and SHOULDER DARTS
    • Eliminate bowing when redrawing dart legs
    • Increase waist total width by 3/8 (1-3/8″) to offset back shaping
    • Move waist top point down 1″
    • Draw new line from first leg of waist dart to first leg of shoulder dart
    • Mark 3.5″ down from shoulder; this is end of shoulder dart
    • Draw from 2nd leg of shoulder dart to 3.5″ mark
    • Move bottom vanishing point up to high hip
    • Squaring off at waist shape, redraw legs to new vanishing point.
  • Add 1/2″ evenly to side seam
  • Redraw the armscye

 

***** A few things I did making my Close Fitting Woven Sloper

The shoulder remains a concern form me. I absolutely could not angle the shoulder the amount needed, increase the cross back and connect all the dots with my curve. Perhaps I would be successful with a different curve. For the time being and before starting the sloper, I lowered the shoulder 3/4″ and increased the back shoulder dart 1/2″. The front I needed to lower the shoulder 3/4″ but not needing to increase the cross-front, I was able to create a new armscye by drawing a curve to all 3 points.

I moved the high hip line to 3″ below the waist.  If I’d left it at the standard 4″ the shape would not have matched my own. I curve out dramatically from waist to low hip not high hip to low hip. I wanted the shape on the paper to more closely approximate my own. When I start moulage 4,  will verify these distances.

On the back, I moved the center line to the calculated mid-point of the waist. The line drawn from mid-point shoulder to mid-point waist was much smoother. The previous line required a jog. But on the front I left the mid-line at 4.5″.  My figure breadth is 9″.  4.5″ places the high figure point in the correct location for me.

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I thought it would be interesting to see the new (yellow paper, on left) compared with the old (white paper on right).  Unfortunately, when placed on top of each other, the one on bottom isn’t visible. Placed side by side they look a whole lot a like.  You wouldn’t know I spent over an hour making and verifying a dozen changes.

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I did the back first. This is one of those places where I disagree with Suzy, but am not going to call her wrong. Most instructors/educators teach the simplest and build upon that knowledge.  IRL, we often tackle the hardest to get it out of our minds. Unless you’re trying to impress someone like a boss? with progress being made. Then you complete and slide a few easy things onto their desk while you get the hard one done.

The most notable lesson I learned here is that the change from moulage to sloper is not merely adding ease to the side line.  There are a series of changes that need to be considered and probably executed. The end result is a subtly changed shape. However, I know already that those subtle changes make a big difference in how the fabric wraps around my body.

 

 

 

 

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