Moulage 3 took 7 fittings and is not perfected. Although it fits better, it looks worse than Moulage 1. That’s partly because Moulage 1 was so tight I couldn’t breathe and wrinkles couldn’t form.
Seven fittings because I fit one area at a time in small increments. At one point I despaired thinking I would not be able to fit using Suzy’s system. That changed as I realized the cross back and armscye measurements were wrong. I was surprised when I raised the low hip (by taking a 1″ deep tuck) and many drag lines below the waist just simply disappeared.
One of the last things I did to this moulage, was completely remove the front darts adding 1/2″ waistline ease. It had no effect on the downward dog wrinkles seen below the waist. Which puzzles me because low-though-high hip could be taken in even more, at least another 1/4″. So I don’t think it’s not enough ease at the hip, but I’ve just proven (?) it’s not lack of ease at the waist.
The sides are looking good especially front views and above the waist. There are the diagonals below the waist and some horizontal lines at the back armscye. Not sure if the lines at the back armscye result from armscye depth, or if the underarm base needs to be longer. Another possibility, is that I will need round back alteration in addition to adding cross back width. I would think the round back would be taking care of my the back waist length + the cross back width.
While this isn’t the near-perfection I was hoping for (especially after investing 4 hours of fitting on 3 consecutive days). It is better than I have seen in the last few months. I’m going to use this moulage to create the slopers Suzy describes in class because I think it will take a while to get the book and I still want to work with Suzy’s system. Personally I think these possible ‘dry runs’ will be helpful exercises.
I’m looking forward to Moulage 4 which I will do when I read the book along and with my newly printed measurement chart on which I’ve written the adjusted measurements. I’ve made so many changes and discovered several critical measurement errors that I don’t think my moulage making is truly done. I really think I should get to the point of not having any deep wrinkles. Of course the fabric will develop some during movement but those two areas (back armscye and under waist) should not be this prominent IMO.