Clean Copies

Actually, the next step was fairly evident. Using pencil, I copied only the current lines and added the numbers.  It was such a relief for my eyes to be working with this:

dscn7085_resize dscn7087_resize

Yeah, kinda of light. Maybe difficult to see. I wanted to be able to make further corrections. I thought the waist/hip block was probably OK. A little tight because this is a moulage. Changing the shoulder/armscye had involved many changes.  I thought I was ‘in the ball park’ but doubted that I’d hit a home run. Even if the left shoulder fit, the right was bound to need further adjustments. So clean copy, in pencil.

Except, I didn’t want to do a 3rd test moulage. OK 2nd one didn’t get finished but all the tracing, cutting adding seam allowances, grainlines, etc all that time consuming stuff that’s taken care of when starting with a commercial pattern had to be done by me. I’d done it twice already for a garment I had no intention of using past a few pics.  Did I want to do that again? No, but I’m pretty sure Suzy would have encouraged me to complete the process.

With test 2, I had been thinking it would make a new cover for my dressform.  My dressform no longer resembles my body and has become useless. I miss being able to use it.  When it duplicates my figure, I can work through the majority of my design, style and fitting issues as if I’m working on a client. I think it’s easier to work on somebody else.  Anyway, I was thinking of taking the time to recover and pad my dressform.  Seemed like a good idea so the next project is not a moulage but a new Dress Form cover.

I traced the working copy (the white copy of my moulage) to make the pattern for my dressform. It needs to be a close fitting garment but not perhaps as close as the moulage.  Through practice I’ve found that when my dressform is exactly my measurements, I will overfit. Eventually, padding out the dressform with an extra 1/4-1/2″ may not be a bad idea for me.  But to this new tracing, the dressform tracing, I added 1/4″ seam allowances to armcyes and necklines; 1/2″ seam allowances to center back, side seams and shoulders; and 1″ to center front and at the hems of both back and front.

dscn7088_resize

When I get to the dress form cover, I can increase the ease by letting out the seam allowances.

I trimmed the excess tissue, folding the dart legs when I reached them so that they will clean finish when sewn. I awl punched the dart legs and guide line ends.  Marked the waistline shaping to be sewn as a dart. Suzy says the waist shaping is needed for close fitting garments and says it can be cut or folded out.  I’m happy with neither solution. For the first 2 moulages, I cut the waist shaping away. My seams did not meet. I didn’t want to ease, so I trimmed the seam allowances even.  It was a choice that forever weighed on my mind. Did I trim too much? Too much or too little from one side or another?  Should they have been ease?    For this cover, I folded the tissue which made my shape wonky; bubbly. Like adding a bust dart.   It distorted the pattern too much for me to be confident. I elected to sew a dart.

I stay stitched armscyes and neckline and then trimmed away using my pinking rotary cutter. Suzy stay stitches and trims the excess. I suppose I could have trimmed using the pinking blade and skipped the stay stitching but this way I had a positive, exact guide for matching up the stitching line.  I stitched the darts with poly all-purpose thread. Stitched the seams with water soluble thread in the bobbin.  I folded the 1″ center front seam allowance to the inside and pressed carefully before stitching to the zipper.

Then proceeded to take pics for the first fitting.

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