So I don’t want to watch the lesson videos again. Impatient; not wanting to wait for the book which could take between 1-3 weeks (if sent media mail, the USPO is entitled to take a long time delivering.) How about resurrecting Moulage 01?
I pull out Moulage 01. I know there are 2 issues, the front and back to waist length’s are 2″ too long and the shoulder is 1/2″ short. I walk the side seams and discover that the back is 1/4″ longer than the front between waist and high hip. I measure and it is the back that is too long. (Should be 4.5″ between waist and high hip. Mine is 4.75″. How’d I do that?). I fold out 2″ above the waist on both the front and back Moulage. Then I fold out 1/4″ on the back moulage between waist and high hip. Then redraw the waist darts. I extend the back and front shoulder 1/2″ which starts off a series of corrections. A new armscye needs to be drawn, measured and adjusted. The shoulder dart needs to be centered and the correct length. The side seams needs to be redrawn. Then the shoulder adjustment needs to be made. Finally, finally I trace the corrected lines with a green ultra-fine point Sharpie.
I made a point of saying ‘ultra-fine’. I think the ‘fine point’ puts down a line just under 1/8″. 1/8″ added multiple times can ruin a pattern. I think at the very least, using the find point, and chalk added to discrepancies with the previous test moulages. I also note that the changes above are in the 1/4-1/2″ range. I personally have made 1/8″ adjustments and 1/16″ darts because that’s what was needed during fitting. I have to apologize to Suzy for whining about truing the shoulder 1/16″. She right. Whatever the moulage is off, is multiplied by the time you get to the garment. It is important to me to be as accurate as I can and that includes using an ultra-fine pointed pen.
At last, I think, I may have a moulage that fits me. What’s next?