…and then disaster.

All was going well with my test garment, until I tried to sew the side seams.  The back was about 1.5″ longer than the front. I tried to isolate the cause, discovering pretty quickly that the back side length was 8″ and equal to the front which included a 1″ bust dart.  I looked closely at the back and discovered I’d used Bust Guide line 1 instead of 2 to create my armscye.  I thought that should be easy to fix. So I erased and drew new guides and created the armscye connecting with Point F. Then I measured it. Oh my. Much too long. Dropped the shoulder point and drew a new shoulder line which created an extremely sloped shoulder. I found that cheering. I know my shoulders are sloped more than normal.  Have a system that would automatically correct the shoulder to the right slope is good news. Then of course, I needed to draw new dart legs and make The Shoulder Adjustment. While the first time through the shoulders were perfect, this time the back shoulder was 7/8″ lower than the front. According to Suzy, this must be adjusted. I have a hard time splitting eights so I opted to raise the back 4/8 and lower the front 3/8 total 7/8 and the armscye should be the correct overall length.

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I transferred the new shoulder slopes and armscye to my test garment. Stitched the shoulder together and then attempted to stitch the side seam. Nothing doing. The side seams were still off 1+”.

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I spent more time going over my moulage trying to discover where the error is. Several erasures and scribbles later, I realized I needed to go through the moulage one step at a time. Which meant watching those blamed videos yet again. I’ve watched the front 3times, back twice. I’m thankful Suzy explained the why’s.  I understand soon and remember better when I know the whys. But I don’t want to hear them again.  Especially standing bent over my work table.

I took a break. Then asked SG if anyone knows of a reference that would just list the points that need to be plotted and the distances involved. You see, my body is continuing to change. It’s not just me getting pickier with fitting or fatter.. I can see the measurements changing while my weight stays about the same. At this point in my life, I anticipate needing to repeat this fitting process every year. That’s exactly what has happened to me that last 3.  I want to be ready and able to adapt. And I really don’t want to watch those videos over and over

… and over

…….and over

 

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5 thoughts on “…and then disaster.

  1. I highly recommend buying Suzy’s book “Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing”. I have all of Suzy’s Craftsy classes and bought the book as a reference and am glad I did. As I listened to her class, I would take notes in the book as a reference. Like you, I like knowing the why of things so I’m glad I signed up for them (when they were on sale) but now that my moulages are done, I can now refer to the book instead of the classes.

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    1. Thanks. Found Suzy’s book and purchased. At $3.99 shipping, I’m expecting it in a few weeks rather than days.

      Agree totally. I do like understanding ‘why’. Just because I’m curious. But I also like knowing ‘why’ so that if I make changes I know I’m making the right changes.

      bev

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  2. Susy has a book you can buy from her that covers the steps she uses in the class. I want to say its about $40.00 something like that.

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