When I finished Moulage 1, I suddenly understood what we were doing. I mean I could see the forest as well as the trees. I could have continued to tweak the Moulage 1 but decided I wanted to start fresh – all the way back to measurements. Partly, I wanted to look at the effect of my asymmetrical shoulders. Partly, I wanted to recheck everything for accuracy.
I printed 2 new charts naming one Left and the other Right. I did not struggle taking front and back waist length measurements. I subtracted 2″ from both previous recorded figures. Knowing where and what to measure, I was able to whip through the list. I was surprised but pleased but find that now I was measuring low and high hip from my true waist, the depths became standard i.e. 4.5″ down from waist for High hip and 8.5″ down for low hip vs 2 and 7. Measuring these circumferences higher up also made them smaller. I opted to keep the larger measurements. Honestly I thought the low and high hip were fine but the tummy would need even more room. Using smaller measurements seemed wrong. Unlike the first time through, I’m following my instincts and previous self-discoveries. I’ve been sewing a long time. Measured my body more times than I can remember. Up until the last few years, my measurements have produced nicely fitting garments. I understand Suzy’s instructions are based on a wide variety of bodies. But to draft something I’m going to wear, well I’m going to trust my self-knowledge.
As for the Asymmetry, the differences so visible in the mirror are shockingly small. The Figure length is 1/2″ longer on right than on left. Shoulder, and side lengths are equal. I had anticipated drafting a right and left moulage. But seeing there is only 1 different measurement and Moulage 1 being nearly corrected with simple changes, I don’t think a right and left moulage are needed, at least at this time. I kept both sheets, stapled together with Left on top and completed the calculations using the Left measurements.
After recalculating, I compared with the Moulage 1. Glad I did because I had forgotten about the error in the armscye calculation on the chart (the front armscye should be shorter than the back armscye). I also looked up and wrote on this calculation page the dart widths. I found it fussy to be shuffling back and forth between the measure calculations, the dart chart and the moulage draft. I reduced it to 2 places 1) the measurement chart 2) the paper sheet for drafting. Despite my note taking (I updated previous posts with a list of points and how to plot them), I still needed the video playing. There is just too much information being put out and the work is being done all over the drafting sheet. I understand all the parts relate to the whole therefore change as new data is added previous places need updating. The Bust Guide Line in particular moves 3 times.
Slightly disappointed that I needed to watch the video yet a 3rd time, I drafted Moulage 2. Copied it and created the test garment pattern in one afternoon vs the 2 used previously. I used different seam allowances from what Suzy specifies and from what I used on Moulage 1. For Moulage 2, I used 1″ center front, 3/4″ side seam, 1/4″ armcye and Neck, and 1/2″ elsewhere. I considered making everything except the CF 1/4″. The sewing would have been very quick and easy plus I think the larger the seam allowance the more change there is to introduce error. I settled on the distances above because I’m not entirely sure that Moulage 2 will fit perfectly and eliminate the need for Moulage 3.
Truth is, I found errors and differences in drafting Moulage 2. Most notable, of course, was that the neck to waist length of back and front was 2″ shorter. As was the side length. I had erred in using a 4.5″ total shoulder length. With 1/2″ dart the total should have been 5″. The vertical darts should have been placed at 1/2″ the bust length( width) for me 5.5″. This time the armscyes met up with the shoulder seam exactly. I did not need to increase the shoulder slope (which does have me concerned as one of my fitting issues is the shoulder slope). I used 4″ on Moulage 1 because that’s what Suzy said as she was talking. She referred to exact measurements rather than the name of the measurement. From time to time she would specify something was an ‘industry standard’. I think I misunderstood the first time when she discussed placing the vertical waist darts. I did that a few other times as well. Because my finished Moulage 2 is noticeably different from Moulage 1. I think I’ve still misunderstood something about the shoulder. The final section is the shoulder adjustment. During the calculations we are directed to make the back armscye 1/4″ longer than the front. During the shoulder adjustment, I removed 1/4 from back and added it to the back to make the shoulder slopes the same. I’ve now lost the longer back armscye. Something awry there. Happily I did discover what went wrong with the front hip side seam. On Moulage 1 it jutted out from waist to High hip and sharply angled back in to the Low Hip. I dont’ know exactly what I did wrong the first time, but on Moulage 2 it now slopes outward slightly from waist to High hip and then straight down to the Low hip.
I know it’s hard to see. Last time I outlined immediately, before I could forget, tracing the major lines with a sharpie. Almost immediately I need to make changes for the shoulder adjustment which of course changes the dart legs. After the test garment, I realized I needed to change the neck to waist and side lengths which would require tweaks to just about everything. That’s why I started fresh. I mean after all that erasing, I’m not sure I would have known which line was the correct and final line. So this time, I didn’t outline, I traced and made my pattern for test #2.
Fingers crossed. It’s time to sew the test garment for Moulage 2.