Suzy Furer: Moulage 1 Done

As noted my first change was ripping apart all those seams and removing 1.75″ length from the pieces above the waist. Then sewing all the pieces back together.  The first time I stitched these seams. I was careful.  Ripped out several seams multiple times to make sure crossing seams aligned perfect or near perfectly. Not this time. Already sure that I would need at least Moulage 2, I popped those seams (all stitched with water soluble thread) and zoomed through the second stitching. I pressed using a dry iron and my ham in the curved places.  The result:

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The back is still a little messy, but look how improved when compared to the first fitting. The front is also considerably nicer. One thing of note to me is that the bust dart appears to be high.  My ^ipple is about 3/4″ lower. However when looking at the side, the dart is placed midways through the most prominent area.  I’m fairly consistent with my purchase of bras and inclined to leave the Bust Guide Line where it is.

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Left   —————————-   Right

I see drag lines pointing to my tummy (same message several people have also left on my blog). I am totally surprised that the sides beneath the underarm and the back are missing the big U’s especially since I’ve not made any changes to the shoulder slope.

I decided to work on  reducing the back armscye gaping. When looking from the front I see that the back shoulder just peaks over the front –exactly as Suzy had said was desirable.

.backpeek

I tried to draw the seam line on one side to make the peaking a little more clear in the pic.

Looking in the mirror – never a perfect operation – I decided on how much to pinch and pin from the back armscy.  I removed the moulage;  measured the pinch and then darted the same amount about 3″ down on the back armscye. I’m totally shocked at the result. For one thing, before the back armscye dart, the neck had felt like it too high. Now it seems to have settled into place.

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Personally, I think if I add a little ease for the tummy and trim a little from the armscye this wold be perfect.  BTW, I’m pretty sure the armscye issue may be the curve I chose to draw rather than any measurements or other drafting activity.

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I’m totally shocked by the side views. My immediate reaction is that my tummy needs more ease. There are no big U’s (back and front drag lines meeting along the side seams). From these pics, I’m not even sure the armscye needs to be lower.  Lowering the armscye had become an automatic 2nd step when increasing the shoulder slope.

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There is still some mess in the center back along both sides of the waist line. This time, I’m not automatically sure that the issue is the back waist length.  I looked long and hard at the curvature of my back before deciding that I need to increase the BWL adjustment from 1-3/4″ to 2″.

This is by no means perfected. BUT it is so much  closer to fitting than anything I’ve sewn the last few months.  I’m really feeling optimistic and definitely take back my threat to ask for a refund.

Next step?

I made 2 changes and discovered that my concerns about the asymmetrical shoulders were unimportant. I think the next step is to recheck measurements, revise the calculated results to reflect the shorter front and back lengths.  Followed by drafting a new moulage, tracing, cutting and sewing.  Yep it’s onto Moulage 2 for me.

 

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