Suzy Furer Fitting the Moulage

A bit premature perhaps, I discussed Lesson 7, Fitting and Trouble Shooting in the previous post. Suzy doesn’t do an in-depth analysis of fit. She only points out items to correct that you might not realize. Such as, when the front neck gaps, the correction is making the back neck wider.  Actual fit diagnoses and correction of the moulage is up to you.

I traced my pieces and cut them apart as recommended with some exceptions. I also numbered my pieces so I could keep track of them and which side was up.  I also marked grain lines before cutting apart.  Suzy recommends adding 1/2″ seam allowances everywhere except the back which uses 1″ and then trimming away after stay stitching neck and armscyes. Overtime, I’ve developed my own preferences. I used 1/4″ along neck and armscyes. 1/2″ to join upper to lower pieces and along princess seams.  1″ along the shoulder (I know I’m going to need to change this bugger at least on the right side) ; side seams 1″ and both front and back seam allowances 1″.  Suzy plans to pin the back tightly. Won’t happen for me. I cannot reach around to all parts of my back.  I considered adding a zipper to the back but remembered I quit making garments that required a center back zipper long time ago because of how I have to wiggle and crunch to get the zipper up.  I stay stitched along the 1″ side seam and put a zipper in front carefully meeting the fabric over the zipper.  Unfortunately, I may have introduced some inaccuracy or even some issue by adding the front zipper. Thing is, you do what you have to. It’s what I needed.

So how badly did it fit?  Because I already know it can’t possibly fit. I’ve done nothing to address the asymmetrical shoulders. My bodices cannot fit unless I accommodate that issue. Not as terribly as I thought.

First issue:

bwl01_resize

Most people would immediately say “You need a Sway Back adjustment”. Kinda looks like that but see how those wrinkles carry around to both sides and almost across the front?

bwl2_resize bwl3_resize bwl4_resize

I think that’s saying the length from shoulder to waist is too long.  Suzy says to check where the waist is by having the client look up and then position their hands at their waist.  When I do that, my hands land above the moulage’s waist:

dscn7062_resize

Bit hard to see. I also pinned where my hand is resting:

bwl5_resize

and then measured the difference while the moulage is smoothed out on my ironing board

dscn7064_resize

Nearly 1 3/4″.  So first alteration will be shortening the length.

Before I go there, I’d like to share my surprise at other fitting areas.  An evaluation at this point is not 100% reliable because the moulage is not hanging freely. But look at these shoulder pix:

shoulderback_resize shoulderfront_resize

Looking straight on they are pretty free from a lot of wrinkles. The ‘bust’ darts a little high (they may drop when the waistline is in place). Also I notice I didn’t zip up all the way.

 

shoulderleft_resize shoulderright_resize

Instead of the underarm U’s/ drapes/pull lines I normally see, this cotton is gaping at the back. It will be interesting to see if correcting the back waist length also affects the armscye gaping.

I’m especially pleased that the “skirt”  is good.

skirt3_resize skirtback_resize

skirt2_resizeskirt4_resize

Not perfect but really good. Most of the time, I have to add ease at least to the back. This is 100% cotton. No give. None. It could look better, but this is really OK.

 

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