Suzy Furrer: Groan (and Back Moulage Foundation and Drafting)

ETA: Back Guide line Notes

Lesson 7 Checking Fit on the Body

No, you didn’t miss my comments on Lessons 5 and 6.   I skipped ahead because there is so little reference made to body asymmetry.  I know without questions that my right shoulder is lower than my left.  It’s clearly visible in my pics.  I also know that my shoulders are more greatly sloped than average. I’ve been increasing the shoulder slope 5/8″.   I know these things.  I suspect I may have other issues because I haven’t been able to fit my last slopers. Age (and cancer) is taking a toll. My body is becoming increasingly non-standard. Suzy talks ‘standard’ with rare mention of deviations. I’m fearing that this course is a waste of my time.  I don’t see how drafting a standard pattern is going to help me.  So I skipped forward a few lessons to Checking the Fit on the Body.  I thought by here, some mention needs to be made for departures from standard i.e. the body of anyone more than 12 years old.  And here’s where I groaned and said a few bad words. Suzy talks of 1/8 here 1/4 there. Tweaking small amounts all the while insisting that you should be very close. I checked reviews and did find one person who flat-out said Suzy’s instructions don’t work for the plus figure (I’m near plus.) or large busted (me? barely B.)  I’m moaning and groaning because I fear this class is going to be what I always thought: drafting a basic pattern and then multiple muslins to fit. Groan. A basic pattern can be purchased from any of the Big 4 and many Indy’s.  I’ve just created 5 muslins trying to fit a basic pattern. Am I really going to invest hours plotting points and then fit 5 more muslins?

On the plus side, I have learned a few things.  Really pleased to see how the armscye, and side curves are created.  Glad to know that I’m not far off when I draw these things.  I’ve been adding evenly to the side seam when I need more ease at any point, then pinching out (draping) during fitting.  Having had this class I see how I can add ease is needed and restore the curve without adding ease where I don’t need more.

I’m going to finish Lessons 5 and 6.  I will start Lesson 7, but if I’m far off at lesson 7, I’m asking for a refund.  I don’t want to draft patterns. I want to fit my body. If the fit is not very close by  Lesson 7, I’m done.

 

TA! DA! Back Moulage done

dscn7057_resize

Lesson 5:  Drafting the Back Moulage

I did the Shoulder Adjustment shown at the end of the class but the pic above (and pic of the front moulage) were taken before that adjustment was done.  Boy was that some picky adjusting.  I moved 1/16″ from front to back shoulder height; and shortened the back shoulder length 1/8″.  Suzy said be picky when you’re first making moulages.  After you’ve had experience you can better just as to whether these small amounts will have an effect. I genuinely want to learn so as much as I’m able to, I am following her instructions.

After this lesson, I would offer another improvement for the course:  Teach the back moulage first.  It’s pretty standard to build on previous knowledge. For most people it is easier to add complexity when they already have a basis.  Also,  length of the previous lesson would have been shorter while this lesson longer. That’s because the teacher would be explaining in more detail plotting out the back.  Details that wouldn’t need repeated on the front.  I will say that having struggled with the front, I was much better at keeping up as Suzy was discussing and demoing; and because the lesson was shorter my back and legs didn’t hurt nearly as much.

Directed at Craftsy; the program is crippled for viewing within Safari.  The 30 sec repeat would have been immensely helpful. Instead I had to stop, rewind, and rewatch parts that were already clear.  I did not download the app.  My IPAD has 29GB memory and I’m a Data Junkie.  I have to monitor closely what I’m putting on my tablets.  I therefore prefer to watch online as much as possible. My tablet can easily handle temporary files that are deleted when done. But storing lots of movies and pictures ain’t gonna happen.

I’m anxious to get onto Lesson 6 the tracing fitting and sewing and onto Lesson 7 where the fit is evaluated and corrected.  My hopes for this even remotely fitting are low. I look at my moulages and see that they are too long from neck to waist as compared against waist to low hip.  Suzy’s placement of the waist, feels and looks wrong. However, I took this class to figure out what I’m doing that’s preventing me from fitting my bodices. I’ve run through all the fitting corrections which seem to apply. I need to do something different and boy is this different.

*********

Back Guide Line Notes

BACK GUIDE LINES

Repeat front with these exceptions

  • Use Back calculated measurements in place of front calculated measurements
  • Back Neck
    • Measure up fro Waist Gl the Back Waist length
    • Out 9″
  • Bust GL
    • Half of BWL
    • Out back bust length
  • Cross back
    • 4-1/4″ down from neck
    • out 9″

 

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