Suzy Furer: Moulage Front (Foundation and Drafting)

ETA: add Front Foundation Notes

ETA Front Drafting Notes

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My front moulage. That I created!

Class: Calculations and Setting Up the Moulage

Suzy goes through converting the measurements made to the measures needed for drafting the moulage. She’s very thorough but it is pretty straight forward. A complaint in regards to the armhole calculations. In the class she says subtract 1/4″ from the front and add 1/4″ to the back.  Her sample worksheet shows the same. But on  the blank worksheet, the one I’m supposed to fill out,  the directions are the opposite.  Even the exception to the rule is backwards. I know from experience that the front armhole is smaller.  The extra room is needed in the back armscye for movement.

I found the insistence to use inches as opposed to metric and “Don’t use a calculator. Do the math in your head.” surprising.   Math is not the strong suite of many.  One of the most common complains I’ve heard in my life is “they lost me at the fractions”.  Commonly, doing away with  math classes in public schools is proposed because ‘everyone uses calculators.” Now generations of math-deficient citizens are told to do the math in their heads.  Personally, I found a table on the Internet which converted eights to tenths.  Then converted the final answer back to eights using the same table.  Yes, my fractions are rusty.

Setting up the moulage is a complicated process. The worksheet/diagram is really clear. Several standard measurements are substituted for actual measurements.  In short order my note taking overran the worksheet. I stopped taking notes. Started playing the movie  while drawing out the dots and lines.   Unfortunately this is one of those classes that become boring. Sorry, but there’s no way around the fact that the lesson goes on and on describing the points and measurements and calculations. I understand this is necessary. Directions without the narrative explaining why would be senseless.  But I found myself thinking about my aching legs and back instead of which and where to plot.  I rewound the movie multiple times because my mind wandered. Twice I was stumped and didn’t discover what I had done wrong until a few plots down the line. At which point they had to be erased and recreated.  I’m sure I still have the low hip wrong. There is no way that the high hip should be wider than the low hip. Not even taking the dart into consideration. I’m wrong just don’t know where.  Can the class or methodology be improved? I don’t know how. Suzy is thorough and good at explaining what and why.  I think the actual instructions are necessarily long. Separately drafting the front and back, thereby giving the audience a break, was a good idea.  It would have helped me had the guide lines been on their own page and then greyed on page 5, so that at page 6 (the finished moulage) I would have seen the progression of development more clearly.  Would that help anyone else?

I’m going through the lessons one at a time and hoping that later on there is some tweaking which does not involve making a garment from this moulage  and pinching here and there. There is no way this moulage is going to come close to fitting me as is and pinching has failed me commercial patterns.  I was hoping that drafting would adapt the moulage for my body.

******

Um, should warn that I’m not going to repeat the lessons in detail in my posts.  My point is to record the experience not to teach.

*****************

Moulage Foundation Notes

GL=Guide Line

FRONT GUIDE LINES

  • Use Front Calculated Measurements unless otherwise directed
  • Mark CF along paper side edge
  • Waist GL
    • draw line perpendicular to side of paper about 1/3″ up from bottom edge
    • Line length is same as Low Hip Length
  • High Hip GL
    • 4.5″ (4″ petite) down from WaistGL
    • Length same as Low Hip Length
  • Low Hip GL
    • 4″ (3.5″ petite) down from Low Hip GL
    • Length same as Low Hip Length
  • Box the waist, high and low hip lines.
  • Front Length
    • Up from Waist GL by front length measurement
  • Front neckline
    • starts at top of Front Length just drawn, extends 4″ long
  • Bust GL
    • Up from waist half of Front length
    • Out Front Bust Length
  • Cross Front GL
    • Down from neckline 3″
    • 8″ long

************

FRONT Drafting Notes

We’re plotting points and then drawing lines between them

NECK

AB A is Neck GL at edge B over length  Front Neck calculation

BC Up from B The (front neck length +1/8″) C is Neck shoulder point

CD Di is mid way of BC

DE square out from D 6″ for point E

SHOULDER

CF starting at C and landing on the DE line, draw a line (Shoulder Length +1/2″ dart) long

GH center the dart on DF, mark the legs points G&H

BUST AND WAIST

I J is first Bust GL

IK place K (1/2 of Bust width)  on Bust GL

Make 4″ Gl vertical to I

AL Start at A plot line the length of Figure Length on the 4″ GL

M Square from L to the CF new Bust GL

WAIST DART

Continue I GL down to low hip noting Waist Point N Low Hip Point O

Calculate difference between waist and low hip circumferences; check chart for dart width

Place points P and Q 1/2 the width dart on either side of point O

Waist shaping Square down 1/2″ from P Q and over to CF point U

Up from Low hip 3″ along the guide line place dart vanishing point S

draw dart leqs P & Q to S

LOW BUST POINT

at L meausre down 3/4″  Point V square to CF this is new Bust GL

Draw dart legs from V to P&Q

Draw shoulder Dart legs G & H to V

~~~~~~ Not finished ~~~~~

 

 

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