PJ Top (Muslin 2) Finished!

What really happened is the weather turned cold and it snowed 6″.  I crawled onto an ice block at bedtime and immediately hopped off. I distinctly remember turning the heater on low. Like set at 55F.  The mattress should be cool but not iced over.  I check the heater. DH has turned the heater off.  I can’t convince him that just because the red power light is on doesn’t mean it is heating the room.  I turn the heater on and face it towards the wall so he can’t see the lights. Then I hunt for something warmer to wear for sleeping.

Next morning, I finish this top; this PJ top.  I replace all the water-soluble thread stitching with durable thread in both needle and bobbin.  I increase the front yoke darts from 1/2 to 5/8″.   Fold out 1/2″ (a 1/4″ tuck) in the sleeve cap; fold out 1″ length (1/2″ tuck) and add 1″ to each side seam.  I’m hoping that’s enough because the basic sleeve draft has zero ease.  Might be OK with slinky but I don’t want any of my other knits to have zero ease.  Then I serged it together. No I didn’t test.  I need this PJ set NOW.

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I’m still at the wearable but not wonderful stage with this pattern.  Folding out the tuck in the sleeve cap has turned out to be an error. I reduced the cap height because I had reduced the armscye depth.  I wanted the armscye higher. Everything I’ve read has said if the depth of the armscye is reduced, the cap height must also be reduced.  I’m missing something in that correlation. For now, I’ve restored the cap height but left the armscye modified because I like that depth.  I’m pretty sure The drag lines I’m seeing around the armscye are due to the fact that I had to stretch the armscye to fit the sleeve cap.  I’d also say that I’m seeing more circumference in the back then I would prefer but that is something I can fix when it really matters.

I did make a good choice on sleeve length.  My other concern was the ease around my bicep and elbow.  Had this been a stretchier knit, I would be good. But I’m really feeling the limited stretch of this knit.

Despite obvious issues, I’m frankly pleased with the side views.

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My left side is looking really good. The right still needs some more tweaking.  I suspect that when finished, the right shoulder and armscye will be very different from the left.

I curved the hem and finished it with FOE. Mostly because I wanted to get this done.

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I’m truly chuffed with how well I’m able to apply FOE.  My Brother Dream Machine stitches beautifully without the Even Feed or Move-it foot. It’s taken a few tries but I’m finally to the point of understanding how much to stretch the FOE during application.   I trimmed an inch from the neckline and applied FOE around the neckline too. The sleeve is turned up 1″ and top stitched.

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BTW all the pics above were taken of the PJ top and its bottom;  a pair of leggings purchased at Walmart about 2 years ago.  I wouldn’t wear these in public, but at home or in a hotel room they’re fine.

The final step of this particular sewing project is evaluation of the tissue and changes.  I think Tissue 3 is good enough for hanging onto until I’m sure of the next set of changes i.e. the ones I pinched and draped on the PJ top aka  Muslin 2.  So I traced Tissue 4 from Tissue 3 then copied the changes made to Muslin 2.

 

ACCUMULATED TISSUE CHANGES

FRONT BACK
NSA 1″ 1′
NSA Hem Rotation x x
Bust Dart 1-1/8″
BWL 0 1″
Upper Bodice Tuck 1/4″
Shoulder Slope dart 5/8″ 1/2″ 3/4″ on right front
Armscye lowered 1/2′ 1/2″
Length add at hem 2″ 2″
SLEEVE Length -2
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Side Front, Back Sleeve 1″ 1.5″
Armscye 1/4″
Sleeve Cap 4-Jan
Shoulder 4-Jan 5/8″ for 3/8 Shoulder Pads

A considerable list to be sure. Probably the reason RTW doesn’t fit well and probably the reason I haven’t been able to fit my favorite patterns either.  A thought occurs to be that I’ve been detailing, micro-detailing every change made.  At one time this served a purpose because I knew I could make the same changes to every subsequent pattern I wanted to use and I would start with a tissue close to fitting.  This year, 2016, I moved from fitting tissues to adapting detail onto my block. This fall I’ve realized I can’t believe the patterns which say “I’ve made all the changes for you!”.  Sad really, because that used to work for me. But as my body has continued to mature, I find that ‘all the changes’ sometimes cloud the issue of what I need done.  I find myself discovering to the 1/4″ what the designer has done and then reversing their hard work.  I’m still in favor of your trying these patterns with all their changes.  There was  a time when they were golden for me. This could be your time.

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