Muslin 2 Fitting

Not surprisingly,  Muslin 2 looked like I had a long way to go. Why was I not surprised?  I knew I had not included the upper bodice fitting tweaks. Nor I had I restored the armscye. But I had made numerous changes (about 19) that could all go wrong.  So I was not surprised and not really disappointed.  Most of the fitting issues were in fact, expected.

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These are all typical drag lines that I see even on RTW (and why I don’t buy RTW).  They aren’t as deep nor as many as with Tissue 1, Muslin 1.  I started by folding along the yoke lines I drew on the front and back and stitching 3/8″ deep darts both front and back

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That made the armscye feel and look a whole lot better but did nothing for the drag lines under the bust.  I decided to stitch the side seam deeper between underarm and 1″ below bust dart.

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Now THAT made a difference. It had reduced the lower bodice drag lines about half (not entirely sure why the back looks worse here then in the 2 previous pics).  For the next round, I increase the ‘yoke’ darts from 3/8″ deep to 1/2″ and extend them completely across the front and back. It creates a little tuck about 1/8″ and  gives the appearance of a real yoke.   I had problems deciding if the bust dart or the side seam at the underarm needed to be made deeper. For 10 minutes,  I stood in front of the mirror  pinching  each to see what looked improved. Finally I decide to increase the side seam from 1″ to 1.50″ which would return that part of the side seam to the original Otto draft.

Finally with this 3rd fitting , I’m seeing real improvement.  I think most of the issues are on the right side, the side with the lower shoulder.

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There’s still the task of restoring the armscye which I believe will correct the horizontal lines immediately beneath the underarm. There’s also an interesting effect caused by raising the arm

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Raised arm, no drag lines. Interesting?

The problem with restoring the armscye, is I don’t think I want to restore the entire length. If I don’t, I’ll need to adjust the cap height of the sleeve.  There’s another issue. I’m not sure that the armscye is too high.  Once I install the sleeve it will automatically be lowered 1/4″. Do I want to lower the armscye at all even 1/4″?

The left armscye seems to hug my body, while the right is still gaping. My question now is whether to take in more at the ‘yoke’ or at the shoulder seam?  If I increase the dart at the yoke, that line will become asymmetrical.  The same thing is likely to happen if the shoulder seam is tampered with.  Additionally when I change at the shoulder seam, I also change the length. Something I’d really rather not do.

…… What to do????

 

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