I had hoped to quit yesterday by having all the drag lines eliminated except under the right arm. Unfortunately my back started hurting and I stopped when I did Fit 03
Waist and Hip are sitting in the right place. Shoulder has been narrowed and most of the upper bodice issues have been solved through the combination of tucks and darts. I might wear that back. Truth is once I start moving no top is going to look perfect. But i dislike the drag lines and drapes along the side under the arm and bust. So I started tweaking fit again with the intention of removing all the left side drag lines and improving the right side.
Fit 04 shows the results of several actions. I first removed the tuck running across the bust (and back) on Fit 03 and moved it down. I then added 5″ long 1″ deep darts on both sides of the front at the bust. I knew the underarm had too much flopping around at the side seams. I offset the front from the back 1/2″ between underarm and bust. Then restitched the side seams with 1/2″ seam allowances. Tried it on and increased the seam allowance between underarm and bust to 1″. Lastly, I put a CF dart at the neckline to stop that gaping. The result is,
My bust dart is a little low, but otherwise, I’m not sure I should do further fitting. I’m not sure if the drag lines above are fitting issues, or distortions from all the fitting efforts.
I’m equally pleased with the side views. I see some drag lines which could also result from my pose. I was desperately trying to see the side back which usually hides beneath my arm. To my surprise, I think the right, the lower shoulder, looks better than the left. Both sides have been altered an equal amount. One thing I do see is now that I’ve eliminated excess circumference under the arm, the armscye is just a bit too high.
I don’t think I can do anything further with this muslin. I’ll transfer the following changes back to the tissue and start on the 2nd test.
- NSA 1/2″ (-1″ total)
- BWL 1″ (-2″ total)
- Upper bodice tuck 1/4″ (1/2″ total)
- Upper bodice darts 3/8″ (3/4″ total)
- Bust Dart
- 1″ deep (2″ total) , 5″ long
- Under arm ease
- Front -1.25″
- Back -.75″”
- Add 2″ length to hem both front and back
- Restore side seam
- Adj Shoulder SA
- stitching line
- 1/4″ serger se4am
- 5/8″ for 3/8″ shoulder pads