Test2 ITY Paisley

By the end of the first test, my overwhelming thought was: how much effect did the interlock fabric have?  I finished Test 1 (of my sleeveless Knit sloper) and immediately fetched an ITY knit from the stash for test 2. I’m one of the lucky ones. I get along fine with ITY. It does not have the stretch of an interlock but does have a much nicer drape. I tested the stretch factor of my chosen ITY against the chart In Virginia Nastiuk’s 1986  Book III, Personal Pattern Development.   I discovered that my ITY could easily be stretched into the “very stretchy” zone but I didn’t like the look  of it.  I chose instead to consider and utilize my paisley ITY as a “moderate stretch” knit fabric.

I’m really happy with this book, Personal Pattern Development.  In 1986 I was not paying attention to sewing.  I was a young mother with a young child, a husband and a full-time job that was morphing into a demanding career.  I didn’t have time for sewing and, thankfully, I had the figure for RTW.  Times and people change.  I’m now at the point that RTW rarely fits me (jackets, coats scarves and the like are the RTW that fits).  Even worse, most commercial patterns require a Herculean effort to achieve a satisfying-to-me fit.  I have been reduced to working with basic slopers to morph draft current styles into something that fits me.  I send thanks to my Sewing Angel who unearthed a Jinny Nastiuk pattern from her deep pattern stash and began the SG discussion of this talented designer. I’ll discuss my acquisitions in another post. Just let me say that in 1986 I would not have given this book a second glance or more than 2 seconds for the first. Now, it is a godsend.

I made no new changes to the tissue, preferring to see what the exact same dimensions and shapes would produce with a moderate knit fabric. The finished interlock version utilized 3/4″ seam allowances at the shoulder and 1″ at the side seams.  I cut my ITY. Taped the shoulders but was interrupted and forgot to tape armscyes and necklines.  I permanently stitched the bust darts before switching to water-soluble thread and basting shoulder and side seams for the first try on. I tell you now, I was pleased.  Overall, this simple change in seam allowances (planned was 1/4″ shoulder and 1/2″ side) made for a nice looking garment with a few exceptions.

Looking at the pic below, who thinks I need an FBA?  Show of hands please….

You would be entirely justified in your opinion.  In case you’re new to fitting, in the pic below the aqua lines point to where the other readers are looking:

You, all of you would be wrong about my body. I’ve made a dozen tops with at least 4 different FBA’s.  An FBA never clears these drag lines on my body.  It might be helpful for you to look at how that drag line extends under my arm all the way to my hip:

I have a high, prominent seat.  Look closely enough and you will see how my garment cups beneath my tush.  It is also the issue, (my prominent seat) that causes most people to say I need a sway-back alteration.  During the try on, the back wanted to crawl upward and puddle in the middle of my back. Most people, and they are justified, look at the mess of fabric in the middle of my back and say ‘you need a sway back alteration.” I’ve tried a SB alteration many times.  It doesn’t help — for me.  Absolutely if you are new to fitting and don’t know why you are getting the same drag lines, or a mass of wrinkles in the middle of your back,  you should try an FBA or the SB alteration. Testing is the only way to determine if this is your personal issue or (as in my case) not.   What cleared these drag lines for me was increasing the shoulder slope 1/8″,  increasing the CB seam between neck and waist 1/4″ and stitching the side seam between waist and hem  at 1/2″.  Need proof?

I also stitched my right shoulder seam 1/8″ deeper because my right shoulder is lower than my left i.e. I have asymmetrical shoulders.

I enjoyed, yes enjoyed, Test2 of my sleeveless sloper. Start to finish: 3 hours. I made multiple tweaks in 1/8″ increments. Had I been bolder and used 1/4″ increments I might have finished sooner. OTOH, I might have ripped more.   I used a simple neck binding which is pressed to the inside, cover stitched and trimmed:

One of my issues with this sloper is that the armscye seems too low even after increasing the side seam from 7/8″ to 1.25″.  To keep the armscye as high as possible (and covering my underwear), I bound the armscye by wrapping up and over the edge (not turning down the edge like for the neckline). This too is cover stitched and trimmed.

While I had the cover stitch threaded and working, I decided to turn the hem up 1.25″ and cover stitch it as well.

However I was so totally happy to finally discover why my it was tunneling.  At some point I turned the differential up all the way.  It’s been so long since the previous use that I didn’t remember. In fact initially I looked at the differential feed setting and thought it was fine.  Only after thinking through and realizing that “2” meant it was feed something twice as fast, did I think I might need to adjust.

 

So I’m super tickled.  It fits. Not without basting.  Not without multiple tweaks. I have a finished, wearable garment, the second in fact, from what is really a “new” pattern.  Oh and this is not ‘wearable’ in the sense of PJ’s like the first 4 versions of my Eleanor’s.  No indeed, this will be packed for my vacation.  Even though a test garment, it is that good!

 

 

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One thought on “Test2 ITY Paisley

  1. It is just wonderful that you got such a wearable (and lovely garment) in such a short while. It looks so good on you. Karen

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