I started noticing an issue. Hardly appears on Sweater knits.
Wasn’t visible with Rayon Jersey:
But horribly, horribly apparent on double knit or what they call ponte these days:
Yes it is my annoying swag lines around the armscyes. It causes people to suggest I need a wider back and an FBA alterations. The true issue for me is that the underarm is too high. I’m positive that is my issue because I tried multiple versions of both FBA and Wide back alterations. Neither helped at all. Scooping the armscye helps some. Retracing the armscye so that it’s the same shape in a lowered position solve the issue for my rayon jerseys.
Now I’m looking at the HSN Tunic saying what the heck? Why are all those swag lines back? I had noticed that I seemed to be easing the side seam between undearm and waist. So I took the time to walk the seams. Sure enough there is a 3/16″ difference. I wondered if that alone was enough to cause the issues seen above and decided to test with a recently purchased ponte.
This ponte is gorgeous in person. I keep calling it the periwinkle zebra, but I don’t think that’s exactly zebra stripes . Also it is a true perwinkle IRL. Somehow the pic has changed it to grey.
While I was inserting the sleeve, I realized that the sleeve was smaller than the armscye. It should be the other way around i.e. the sleeve cap should be equal to or larger than the armscye. I stopped sewing and walked the pattern sleeve and armscye less seam allowances.
The sleeve really was smaller! Which would ease the garment to the sleeve in effect rouching/gathering the armscye. I added the 3/4″ difference between armscye and sleeve. I sliced the sleeve vertically from cap to hem and spread the cap apart 3/4″ before taping it together. I drew a new SOG line by aligning along the horizontal of the hem line and drawing a line straight up. It’s too late to tell if that’s the issue with this garment. At least I’m ready for the next and I have some clue as to what might be wrong with this and the HSN tunic.
I wondered if adding the shoulder pads helped or hurt. So the first pictures above don’t have shoulder pads. The next do:
I think adding the shoulder pads is the right decision. At least for this garment.
About that neckline:
Saw something similar on HSN. From time to time, I make a front vent or key hole but never thought of making multiple keyholes. Usually I face it or add commercial bias binding around the neckline and I think that’s what they did on the HSN version. For this garment, I lowered the front neckline 2″ in front, 1/2″ in back and widened it 1/2″ at the shoulders, I cut 3 slits in front. The center slit is 3″. Sides 2″. My Dream Machine has been so good at handling FOE that I stitched black 5/8″ FOE around the slits. I used 1″ FOE to finish the neckline. While stitching the FOE around the neckline, I pushed the side slits until the FOE overlapped but allowed the FOE at the center slit to sit side-by-side. I still don’t have the ratio of neckline to FOE right. I thought I was adding some circumference to the neckline especially at the center. So I deliberatly stretched the FOE 1/4″ each 3″ and then finished with the bias join except just meeting the edges not overlapping by any amount. (The quilter’s join usually overlaps by the width of the bias). It’s not quite snug enough the neckline bubbles, flutes and gaps but it isn’t spot on snugged up to my body. However, I prefer this to the gathered look of the woven tunic and I think my FOE application is improving. This is a fabulous neckline. It has a dramatic effect and is easy to do.
Unfortunately I can’t say I’m done tweaking the fit of the Knit Bodice. I need to see what happens now that the sleeve fits the armscye. I know I copied the original armscye because I taped it over the
mangled alterations from fitting the shoulder slope. I need to do one more but…
My sewing angel has gifted me again!!! I have a new pants pattern to try next.