One of the things I loved about Ottobre Design, and one of the reasons I want to get back to Otto, is that once you fit a basic, like the raglin T you don’t have to fit their new raglin designs. The fit is the same. Oh you can trace all the pieces from the current magazines -they’re all there- but what you could instead to trace the new design elements and adapt your existing, fitted, basic pattern. At one point I figured from the original raglin T I could develop 320 tops based on the changes Otto drafts for you. Similarly, I love my basic block because many times all I need is to copy details. For today’s garment I opted for :
A Scoop Neckline
A Fitted Cuff
and A Vented Hem
I scooped the neck after it was embroidered. Before cutting I trimmed the sleeve length 2″ by folding up the sleeve pattern. I also removed 1.5″ from each side at the hem. this sleeve was copied from the woven bodice set. For sweaters and T’s I usually prefer a slimmer sleeve. I serge finished 6″ from hem up the side on each side of the vent. Then after the sleeves were serged into the armscye, I serged the side seam starting 5″ above the raw-edge of the hem and finishing at the cut edge of the sleeve. I cut two 9″ strips of fabric 4″ wide for the cuff. I serged them in a circle; folded in half WST and then serged RST to the sleeve. I’ve made this pattern so often that it felt simple, simple simple. I spent the longest time with the embroidery…
which is 2 designs combined. The vine pattern is rotated and a few leaves trimmed. The large flower is rotated and enlarged. Only the largest flower has the circle stamen. The stamen was trimmed from the smaller flowers. I tested a number of designs
before settling upon the two above. After arranging in a pattern I liked, I tested on a scrap of the sweater knit. I’m using my Ruby
for embroidery. She’s set up in her corner with the newest version of her embroidery foot. I know some people were hoping that I’d use the Brother but I had planned for the Ruby to do the majority of my embroidery. As well as being an excellent embroidery machine with a fabulously large hoop, she’s paid for.
Even though 2 colors are shown in the pic above, I stitched with only 1 color a blue slightly lighter than my acrylic, sweater fabric and then added a few similarly colored crystals. Yes it’s sweater season. I’m buying, knitting, sewing and wearing sweaters.
Side and back views are pretty much as expected.
I worked hard fitting the muslin. Now when I make this pattern, I add details and adapt ease by taking in side seams. I don’t worry about drag lines. A lot has to do with how I’m standing and the fabric itself and even the br@ I’m wearing today. No point in changing the pattern for these transient issues.
Most of the garment is serged. I bound the neckline after testing for length and then joining in a circle using the quilter’s bias join. Loved using the laser light which again made this process so easy for me. Instead of the straight stitch (1-03) I used the lightening stitch (1-06?) set at 5mm long and .5 wide.
Yes I used a small 1/4′ shoulder pad. My shoulders slope and I think one is higher than the other. Shoulder pads are a must for me but I don’t have to look like a foot ball player.