Dartless Block: Final Fitting

Let’s start by saying, I’d rather wear this blouse then either of the two sewn last week but I still have concerns. Not with the back though:

Once all the pieces were sewn together,(including collar and facings and the trimmed front, the back looks pretty good. I could, if I really wanted, stitch in the back vertical darts. That would make this into a slimmer blouse shape.

I took photos of the side from both right and left sides.  It occurred to me that the right shoulder being lower than the left could be contributing to some of the diagonal drag lines.  Sure enough there are hints of diagonals on my left side and one strong diagonal on my right.  I’m really happy that the hem appears level although there is perhaps still some flare in the front.

My biggest criticism of the front is I think I may have made the collar too short.  But I don’t think it looks really bad just a little off. KWIM?   I didn’t want the blouse any shorter than it was during the unhemmed fittings. I really need to alter both my sloper and this pattern because hems are only getting longer.  I used 1″ wide bias tape to face the hem and then top stitched. I’m surprised, but you don’t really notice the hem stitches.  I also top stitched the collar edge and front of the blouse. I just bought those buttons!  I was stoked that they matched the yellow of my fabric.  I may have made my front placket too wide. It does look a little off. But I prefer a goodly underlap and can’t wrap my head around how to make the left different from the right without messing up the lapels. I think I’ll just keep making my blouses look a bit off.

I used an old trick to hem the sleeves.  They are drafted to have a   1.25″, turned-up hem.  I interfaced the hem. Turned it up once. Pressed. Turned up a second time and pressed then stitched along the bottom fold.  When it is unfolded a top stitched “cuff” forms.

BTW, I did not do any pattern matching. I half-way expected this blouse to go straight into the donate box. Didn’t want to make duplicate and full pieces for a blouse I wouldn’t even wear. But things have turned out different and I’m glad the fabric surprised me by matching itself!

I’m pretty happy with this sloper. I still have issues but not sure anyone else would notice. I’m more critical because I know my sewing can be better.  I know I can do better. For now, however, I’m just going to add length.  I think I’ll wait for my DVD and I’ve still got to finish Suzy Fuhrer’s course before tackling this again.


3 thoughts on “Dartless Block: Final Fitting

  1. I really like the fit of this top on you particularly in the upper body and shoulders. The back looks great!

    I’m wondering if you need a slight fba to get rid of the diagonal pull from the shoulder to the bust point or maybe a modified ‘y’ adjustment (from side seam to bust tip, and then from bust tip to the armhole point where the drag line starts; spread for a little more length above the bust and overlap at the armhole seam to give you less distance there). I also wonder if the long hanging fold that shows below the bust to the front of the side seam is showing you have a little too much fullness just in that part. Really looking good!



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