Dartless Block: Tissue Corrections

I still have issues with the sleeves. I think they should be even less wrinkled. I know that I’ve got quite a bit of ease in the sleeve pattern and lots of ease is going to develop near vertical folds. Also arms move a lot which means sleeves move a lot and the fabric moves a lot. Wrinkles form when fabric is moved around.  The exception to this are skin-tight clothes usually made of synthetic fibers and a knit structure. Morale of the story, is I’m not sure how excited to be about the sleeve wrinkles. Perhaps either the Craftsy Class or DVD I just bought will help me out.  For now, I’m leaving the sleeve alone. Calling it OK; done. It is comfortable to wear. It is the right length. It inserted easily. Good  Enough. Done, done, done until I learn something new about sleeves.

The back concerns me only slightly. I realize that when I sliced the dart off the armscye curve I may have changed the back shoulder slope. Years ago I wouldn’t have worried about this minor change. But it took several hours and lots of tweaking to get my new sloper fitting nicely. I don’t want to introduce error now.  So I fold out the dart in my woven bodice sloper and compare with the tissue I’m using for the dartless bodice.  Yes indeed the shoulder slope has changed just slightly. It should be 1/8″ lower at the armscye.

It hardly seems worth the effort, but I’m slightly paranoid and trim that 2″ x 1/8″ sliver before calling the back good.

I turn my attention to the front piece and compare it also with the front piece of the woven bodice sloper.  I’ve introduced lots of error albeit small amounts.

Although I didn’t think I had touched the shoulder slope, it needed correcting. While filling in the front armscye to restore the ease I sliced off the front, I’d substantially changed the shape and added too much ease. Since the front seemed to flare at the hem, I also redrew the side seam to trim away the extra added below the hem.

I was horrified when I compared the new tissue with the fabric:

I can’t believe that I cut it that badly.  I do cut along the tissue edge but I’ve never added more than a thread.  Yet it’s hard to blame the fabric.  The fitting session didn’t last very long. I expected the unstabilized neck to stretch out of shape. But when re-cutting the back lost only the sliver at the outside shoulder. The neck was fine. The front neck didn’t need trimming either. It’s the front side, armscye and shoulder that was heavily trimmed.

Well time to sew this sucker together. Come back tomorrow for the final fitting.

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4 thoughts on “Dartless Block: Tissue Corrections

  1. If you look at L. Cutting’s flicker photos, you will notice darts forming in various places on the models. It’s the nature of her dartless patterns. You will also notice uneven hemlines as a result==often tilting upward at center back and front. Also, regarding sleeves – same thing– peggy sagers has pointed out many times that in order to have a sleeve with no wrinkles it must be a 2 piece sleeve.

    I do wish you luck in coming up with a block you like–perhaps you are looking for the impossible perfection for dartless versions and one piece sleeves.

    Just my 2 cents for what it’s worth. Keep up the good work!

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    1. I had not looked at the wrinkles and hems in LC’s flicker photos. Possibly had I seen those, I’d never have bother with LC’s patterns. I do remember Peggy saying that you needed a two piece sleeve to solve the sleeve wrinkles. I think there is a ‘bent’ sleeve which works but I haven’t seen one in years. I keep wondering why no one else seems to be complaining. Maybe they don’t notice. Regardless, it’s so nice to have some one reassure me on this fitting stuff. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

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  2. Nice pattern weights. : ) I share your pain about sleeve wrinkles. My arms roll forward a bit and that’s what make sleeves twist on me.

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    1. The pattern weights are slices of rocks that are highly polish. I bought mine in Wall SD.

      I havent gotten very far into exploring the fit of sleeves but you have me thinking. As my back is rounding, the shoulder slope becomes greater because the shoulders are coming forward. I dont know that my arms roll forward, but I wouldnt be surprised if that’s also part of the effect of the back rounding. Something to keep in mind. Right now I’m putting my thought and effort into smoothing the bodice front.

      Thanks for stopping by and leaving such a thought provoking comment.

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