First Fitting of the Dartless Block

Over night I could only think that I’m most likely to use a woven dartless block in a shirt or blouse. So I want this pattern to have a front buttoned opening. I can always fold it out if some fabric inspires a pull over style.  I add 1.25″ along the center front to form my placket; and because I do like a collar I draft my own to finish 3″ wide.

Then I set about selecting a fabric. I’ve made logical decisions about the pattern, but I”m not sure the resulting blouse is going to fit nicely. This drafting stuff messes with my  head causing self-doubt. It seems to me that there is inherent fabric behavior which can only be solved with the darted block.  I’m about to find out.

I chose a cotton/lycra 99/1% shirting mostly because I’ve managed to buy 3 cuts of the same fabric. 2 are exactly the same color combination. At least the 3rd is slightly different having a tan instead of white background.  I have no real excuse for having purchased 3 nearly same fabrics. Generally I try to avoid such behavior and make myself choose one color scheme or another.  Good news, if it turns out that the wrinkles on the JMS and EAC blouses to which I’m objecting are the result of the dartless block, I’ve not wasted a good fabric. I can just finish it. Donate (both garment and patterns) and be the wiser while still having in my possession the same nice shirting fabric.   Interestingly that 1% lycra creates about 20% stretch. I hope this stretch doesn’t negate my test.

I cut my fabric and BASTE my pieces together using water-soluble thread.  The first fitting includes both sleeves but not the collar, front facing or hemming. I slipped in shoulder pads, pin the fronts together  along the CF and take pictures.  My pictures are a relief.

There is a little gaping at the neck.  I didn’t stay stitch or tape the neckline. The back also just looks a little big. A little too loose. Not sure if that’s because I didn’t and won’t stitch the vertical darts or  the stretch fabric used in a non-stretch pattern. I’m excited by the side view.

 

I see only a hint of the diagonals and the hem is pretty level. It may be a little longer at the sides. Or could that be a photo effect? The front was equally reassuring.

There is again only a hint of diagonals and it may flare a little at the hem. Perhaps, I should not have added the 1/2″ all up and down the side seam.

First fitting is not bad.  Already I would prefer to wear this garment than either of the two sewn last week. But I’d like to make this as perfect as possible  because I want to use it as a dartless sloper and I have more changes planned.

 

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One thought on “First Fitting of the Dartless Block

  1. There seems to be an unattractive flare at the hem. I agree the back looks large. A back yoke might be a pretty addition. Maybe a slightly shaped hem to avoid the boxy shape? I always check Nordstrom’s for ideas. See here for the shaped hem and the yoked back: http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/foxcroft-shaped-johnny-collar-shirt-plus-size/3783603?origin=keywordsearch-personalizedsort&contextualcategoryid=60151155&fashionColor=Purple&resultback=2800

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