Despite my reservations, I chose my fabric (a rayon crepe from Loes Hinse) and cut it confident that it would all work out. I immediately taped the back shoulder-seams and neckline along with fusing the front with appropriate interfacing before serge-finishshing all raw edges on all the cut pieces. That all takes time but I thought I might be handling the pieces several times and didn’t want this crepe craping-out i.e. raveling away until unusable. I basted all the pieces together using WST.
To my delight, the fit needs tweaking not major changes. I am most pleased by the fact that not once have I had the Underarm U’s.
That’s what I call those drag lines that pull from CF and CB angling towards the side seam. Sometimes they join forming V’s. Most of the time the convergence is more of a capital U. I talk more about this fitting challenge later on.
There is a drag line dropping from bust straight to hem. Because it’s so vertical, I think I may have excess ease in the front lower bodice (skirt).
I know my sloper uses a 5/8 SA at the shoulders. I’ve clearly marked 1/4″ for when I want shoulder pads and 5/8″ when I don’t. I don’t understand why, I may need to investigate more deeply, but I needed to use the 1/4″ shoulder SA even without a shoulder pad. However the garment hangs better in the final pics because I used 3/8″ shoulder pads. If you said Huh? I understand. I’m confused too.
A recurring issue at each fitting was the tendency of the CF Empire line to rise like an ocean wave. Heck like Rogue Ocean Wave; or a shark bite hem. Turns out, the front is sliding towards the back. Once shoulders are correctly positioned the empire line falls slightly higher than expected but evenly. It stays in place when I wear the shoulder pads. Without the shoulder pads the fabric creeps upward and towards the back.
The hem was level in every fit, from every direction. I hemmed and get’s wonky. I dunno. Also, I stitched, removed and restitched the buttons twice. Still the front acts like the buttons are pulling to far to my right side. Another I dunno. Maybe it’s the fabric. I do like this final version. It compares favorably with the first version I ever made. The one that made me fall in love with the pattern:
I think it’s clear the the Empire is not situated as low on my latest version.
I think I may have a bit too much ease. OTOH, I like the way this crepe skims by all my curves especially my butt
This version is amazing when compared with the 3 previous made using my standard fitting procedures:
Admittedly color and fabric affect final appearance. I can’t tell you how pleased I am not to have the verticals from the bust or the U’s (pictured earlier). I can’t tell you how happy I am with this version.
Now back to the fitting method which I’m alternately calling Slashed-Sloper and SloperSlash. Someone, give me a good name. Pattern alterations were extensive, IMO. I’m still in the mind set of 2 (BWL and NSA). Having to slash and fold multiple times on back and front pattern pieces seemed like a lot of work. I was at the same time trying to determine where the darts had migrated/rotated/moved. The location of the darts has much to do with the final style as it does with the final fit. I think I’ve almost *got it*. I need to move length from the lower bodice to the top. I’m just not sure where. I really don’t want to mess with the armscye. Getting the right armscye-copied from the sloper- was critical to eliminating a lot of drag lines. I’m also acutely aware of how the bodice wanted to slope towards the back. Currently anchored by the shoulder pads, but still the garment shoulder should sit and stay at the body’s shoulder. Just for the knowledge, I may add back the amount I removed in the upper bodice pattern here:
In the final analysis used the Sloper-Slash method was much quicker and more effective than other methods I’ve been trying. I’m not completely “sold” but I’m coming around.