Did It Work?

First, I’ve noticed (heh, heh) that when I start with my sloper, I will produce a wearable garment.  It may not look exactly like my inspiration.  I may get kicked-in-the-head by a fabric/style mismatch. But the garment itself will usually fit my height and circumference and be wearable. So I expected was confident that the finished garment would take its place in my wardrobe. For that reason, I chose a nice ITY fabric from my stash. I think my fabric may have been mis-tagged. ITY’s are usually slick/plasticky, thin and have limited stretch (maybe 15%).  This is beefier. Closer to a nice slinky.  Instead of slick, it has a soft almost napped surface and 60% stretch.  It’s a lovely fabric. Turquoise and purple colors dominate.  I’ve been hankering for purples in my wardrobe. This will be the first garment in that direction.

But there is a second important consideration when asking “Did the slashed-sloper fitting-procedure work?”. Would the same lovely dress that Jane Fonda wore look as good on Kathy Bates? I’ve got several more pounds than the lovely model on the LH1011 envelope. Additionally age and injury have reshaped my body and posture. I don’t stand, stoop or sit the same as that model. So even though I started with the same pattern as the model, I think it unrealistic to expect the exact same finished silhouette. Fact is, massive changes would be needed for so that Kathy could wear the “same” dress as Jane. The dresses would look similar but wouldn’t be the same. It’s quite possible that Kathy would refuse to wear the ‘same’ dress Jane did because after all the needed changes, it wouldn’t be flattering to Kathy’s shape.

It might be better, instead of asking “Did it work?” for me to ask “How did it work?” “What was the result?”

I did not have problems sewing this together. None whatsoever.  I basted everything with WST for the fittings.  I’m sharing finished-garment photos.  My boatneck is not as wide as the modeled picture and a little deeper. This was personal choice. A very wide boatneck does not rest easily on my shoulders.  I find that I spend the day readjusting. I don’t like fiddling with my clothing.  Once my garment are in place for the day, I want to forget about them.  Hence I prefer a slightly narrower boatneck.  I raised the front of my boatneck thinking that in the comparison between sloper and pattern, the neckline would be too low.  I can see that I may have created a scoop neck rather than the boatneck Loes drafted.

Sleeves of both garments appear to sit at the wearer’s shoulder point. Score for me.

The envelope shows pics of both the full and 3/4 sleeve lengths.  I chose the 3/4 sleeve for my Fall version.  During fitting I thought the 3/4 sleeve shorter than desired and lengthened it by adding a cuff similar to the cuff of Loes Hinse Tunic Blouse (LH5202). My cuff finished 1″ wide. Honestly, I think I should have faced the sleeve’s hem edge instead of adding length with a cuff. But it’s not objectionable enough for me to change.  OTOH, I would not have wanted my full-sleeve as long as the full-sleeve on the envelope.  I much prefer what I have.

I think ease is about the same.  The model may be displaying a little more ease at the hem. OTOH maybe she should eat, fill out her tummy and stretch the hem of her garment.

I love the print and colors of my fabric and have chosen to share all 3 sides in full color just because I’m so enamored.  But I think when pattern and coloring is so vibrant, fit is easier to critique when the photos are changed to grayscale, sepia tones or even lightened as below

I have no major drag lines.  Most of what you see are print subtleties.  I was especially looking for that stubborn armscye dart which did indeed form during fitting:

I noticed when I compared the two fronts (sloper to pattern) that the front armscye was curved inward much more on the pattern than my sloper.  When I saw the above, I went back to my sloper/pattern tissue and trimmed out along the LH1011’s front armscye and trimmed the front armscye of the garment to match.

That was indeed the right answer for me; my body; my shape.

I finished my neckline by serging a cross-cut 1″ strip;  under-stitched, turned and top stitched into place. I serge finished the hem edge, then turned it up 1.25″ and top stitched. Loes likes the stitch clear elastic to neckline edges; turn to the wrong side and top stitch.  I prefer the more finished look I created.  Also, I really like the deeper hem.  Most of the time, I prefer to apply interfacing to the hem as well.  I’m grateful for any weight this creates which helps the back of my garments slide off the ledge I call a butt and hang nicely.

Will I use this pattern again?  By all means YES!  Anytime I fit a Loes Hinse pattern I use it multiple times. Her fit and style lines are classic and very flattering.  The center back and front seams of 1011 add lots of shaping to this garment. It’s so wonderful. I love it. Changes? I will tweak the neckline to create more of a boatneck appearance. But that’s it.

Will I use the Slashed Sloper Fitting Procedure again? I’m not entirely sure I followed instructions correctly. I’m amazed at how quickly I went from traced pattern to fitted garment and at how much the final garment resembled the envelope. It is changed to my shape which is more Kathy Bateman than Jane Fonda. I like what I created. So yes, I will be using the procedure again although I may do things a bit differently. I just might follow Karen Howland’s instructions more closely.

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5 thoughts on “Did It Work?

  1. A great success all around, nice fit, beautiful fabric, attractive on you. I am curious about your armseye adjustment, did you essentially scoop where the dart was forming?

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    1. It turns out that when I add slope to the shoulder, I have to move the armscye down by the same amount. I tried scooping but created a weird and poorly looking armscye. When I traced the original armscye, the result is perfect. Essentially it is a scoop but made in way that preserves the original armscye shape, size, curve.

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    1. Janet

      So pleased to see all your comments. I’ve just returned from a short trip.

      Janet,
      I love the Ebb pattern and I’m delighted to finally get a fitting copy. Also happy that you like it and have complimented me so highly.

      I used to have 3 different sets of directions for drafting patterns. I dont enjoy plotting points and all the other effort only to still need a muslin and extensive fitting with of the muslin. I have more success and sooner through creating basic fitting blocks. This is the first time I’ve used this particular procedure which involved slashing, spreading or overlapping sloper and/or pattern. I wouldn’t be surprised if there were many more drafting and fitting systems. I just want one that is easy to understand and execute so I can get to the fun stuff!

      sdBev

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  2. I missed this “did it work” for several days. I was most eager to view this Rochelle too, b/c I am a big LH fan.
    There may be several problems:
    1) A problem: under archives, I think it was, for Sept there are 3 entries listed, when there are actually 4 entries.
    2) In another place (I think at https://sdbev.wordpress.com) if I click the link for “did it work” the sloper article comes up.

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