Fixing My Basic Block

To work with my blocks, I’m following along the Craftsy Course: One Pattern Many Looks Blouses.  The first lesson is devoted to creating a sloper with emphasis on choosing a suitable pattern and transforming into a sloper. Fit is mentioned. However the instructor, Sarah Holden, doesn’t help you with fit. She offers other Craftsy courses for help with fitting. She stresses that the pattern must fit before turning it into a sloper. Previously, I worked pretty diligently with CS1201, the Connie Crawford sloper pattern. Connie guides you though the steps of fitting the sloper which I did.  I had two last fitting issues 1) sleeve tightness across my forearm and (2) the U’s on the bodice under the arm. These U’s have bother me for quite some time. I made some changes to the armscye and sleeve pattern, but never tested either. I decided before proceeding with further Lessons, I would finish fitting this pattern by testing my final armscye and sleeve changes.

I did not want to repeat my last project (a button front blouse).  I don’t like to make the exact same ol same ol every time.  I make at least some change.  I decided this time it would be a classic scoop neck top without center front or back opening and short sleeves.  I rummaged in my stash for suitable fabric.  I was looking for a woven fabric at least 44″ wide and 1.25 -1.5 yards long.  My pickings were slim.  In the last 5 years I’ve made a real effort to control the number of small pieces in the stash. I discard  scraps and pieces less than fat quarter. I set 1/4-1/3 yards into their own pile so they can be grabbed for facings and small projects.  Another pile is strictly for fabrics that would make good shorts. Then there are 2 stacks of fabrics one or more yards (but less than 2).  I delved into these piles. Knit, knit, knit. Nope, nope, nope. Several of the fabrics are pre-ordained meaning, I know what I want to make with them once I get fit sorted out. I’ve stopped buying large cuts of fabric.  I routinely buy 2 yard cuts which means, I rarely have large left-over pieces.  Didn’t want to cut into any of my 2 yard pieces and leave a big left over.  Sigh, finally I chose a shirting fabric which was intended to be a short-sleeve camp shirt but had just enough fabric for the 3 piece blouse (front, back and sleeve. I don’t count facings since I cut them on the fly and often dip into those 1/4-1/3 left-overs). I laid out my pattern pieces and decided upon a baseball hem while cutting. Stitched the pieces  together and tried it on.

I was fairly confident this would fit, after all I was only tweaking the armscye and sleeve a little bit. Well the bodice was fine and the underarm looked OK. But the sleeve was a Holy Sh*te moment.

 

I did think about fixing the sleeve but decided (1)the sleeve had been serged to the armscye and (2), I wasn’t really liking this shirting in a blouse. Odd how this shape is so lovely in a knit but in a cotton becomes blocky; shortening; unflattering.  I decided to can it and choose another fabric.

My second fabric is a note quite opaque voile. I lengthened the hem and curved it; cut a V neck and largish facings.

Having little idea what with wrong with the previous sleeve (because there were numerous changes to the tissue), I traced a new sleeve from the originals. Then I stitched the darts and shoulders of both garment and facings before finishing the neckline. I basted side seams and sleeves to check for fit. Rarely do I have a garment which is fine at the first fitting. This time I had to fix the depth of the V-neck. Not sure where I went wrong on the neckline. To fixt I made and stitched into place a lace-embellished dickey that was 3″ long.  The voile was an excellent choice. It drapes, not as nicely as a knit or rayon challis but enough that I have a feminine, soft shape

I’m having a little issue in the back.  I left the darts unsewn. Between that and the cling of both garment and lining, the back wants to hang up on my high hip.

The sleeve and underarm are spectacular:

I finished the sleeve and bottom hem with a wide overlock using MaxiLock Stretch in gold.  I used the default setting on my Viking S21. But during testing I decided I preferred the rolled hem with the wide settings.

Garment is done. Block is ready for use.

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