which happens to work really well with the piece of art I posted yesterday:
OK that wasn’t “real” art just a very satisfying sewing project with lots of artful embroidery. But the camp shirt is the focus of my post today. The shirting I bought from Fabricmart earlier this year. I’ve been dying to cut it but didn’t want to ruin what was to me a beautiful fabric. It is cotton with a pinch of poly. That’s one of my favorite combinations because I have all the comfort and ease cotton provides along with the wrinkle resistance polyester provides. The background is really small squares, maybe 2mm x 2mm?? I’m not sure if the back ground is black, navy or charcoal on white but it contrasts beautifully with the yellow woven stripes. The stripes undulate between intensities through at least 3 different weaves. I looked carefully before deciding on front and back fabric sides and I marked them immediately.
I’m using my Connie Crawford Camp Shirt pattern 5047 with few changes. For the first time, I stitched both front and back darts. Changed to a contrast (white cotton batiste) collar and lapel. I did not make the popular contrasting cuffs. My rear is wide enough without flashing white lozenges drawing further attention. The cuff and sleeve were my only changes to the pattern and were really non-changes. I cut 2.5 x 14″ rectangles for the cuffs and folded the sleeve hem up 1″ to offset the length of the cuff. The pattern remains the same; ready for the next use. I used my favorite of all time cuff applications Loes Hinse Tunic Blouse cuff #5202. I won’t try to duplicate her instructions. I love having the effect of the cuff without having to add buttons/buttonholes or tabs or any of the other things we do to be able to fit the blouse tightly at our wrists.
This is a soft shirting, not crisp like most men’s shirts. I also wanted my camp shirt a little roomy so that I could wear it as a 3rd layer. Still I wish the back fit a little nicer, especially the sleeves. Is there some mystery to lengthening sleeves? I extended the straight of grain the total length I wanted the blouse + 1.25″ hem. Then decided how wide I wanted the “cuff” (the basic is just a turned up hem at the cuff line) and marked out 8″ on either side of the SOG. Next I drew a diagonal line connecting the underarm point to the cuff (less the 1.25″ length added for hem). My sleeve looks baggy even front the front view. Yeah it could be fabric. But I wonder if there is more to sleeves than connecting underarm to hem.
I always like a side view too
and now I really do think I have some fabric issues. Maybe this is why the bolt ended up at Fabricmart available for the home sewist. This is the first time those drag lines from the bust have been so prominent. Well since I discovered that the armscye needed to drop when I dropped the shoulder. My hem looks level (Yippee!!) but is fluting a bit in front. I thought a soft fabric would cling closer to the body. Don’t care. The blouse and fabric look 1000% better IRL. I love this and I’m wearing it with pride.