The next day…

I was so excited by the end result of 5047, that I  transferred the planned changes immediately and cut a new version.  This time my fabric is a cotton lawn purchased this year from  I’ve been drooling over it and several other pieces, but so feared ruining yet another lovely fabric I haven’t been able to cut.

I timed the construction process. I know my final time is less than future versions of this blouse because I made all the pattern changes but didn’t include that time and I didn’t stop for fitting. Normally, I leave a 5/8″ SA on the side seams. I’ll baste  side seams then check fit, sleeve length etc. I tweak fit, then serge the side seams and hem the garment.  Didn’t do that. Fitting usually adds 15 minutes even if I don’t make any changes.  I started the clock with the pressing of the fabric and didn’t pause for anything. Finished time?  2hr 15 min from pressing to photographs.

Despite the lack of smile, I’m as happy with this version as the last. Happier even. Making the shoulder seams 5/8″ brought the sleeve into place and the neckline up to a more comfortable level. The effect of such such small adjustments is amazing.

Do you remember me writing yesterday that fabric can reveal a good pattern’s faults?  Here’s one example.  Yesterday’s rayon barely puckered at the bust line. Today’s cotton lawn shows a s drape below the bust.  Also the front swings out a bit whereas rayon drops straight down wanting to cling closer to the body. Will I change the pattern for these two?

I added shoulder pads.  The rayon looks so much better, I decided the lawn needed shoulder pads too.  I’m pretty sure I need two thickness of shoulder pads. My right shoulder is just enough lower than the left that I can see it and understand it is the cause of the drag lines on that side. Alternatively, I could make unique right and a left shoulder slopes. But this isn’t a problem I’m ready to tackle.  Besides, most people will think it’s just the way I’m standing.

Instead of washers, I’m using a small silver chain in my hem.

I added fusible interfacing to the hem, then serge finished the raw edge.  I knew I wanted to use my machine blind hem so I fused half-inch steam-a-seam just below the line of serging. Next I secured the ends of the chain in the side seams. I only put chain in the back hem.  That’s the hem that creeps up and sticks to my upper hip. Besides this chain isn’t terribly expensive (purchased from on a card without findings), if it is the solution or even just a great help, it will be an additional step and an added expense for each top.

Once the chain is secured, I turned up the hem and keeping the chain below the SAS, pressed the hem into place

Then I hemmed it at the machine.  Time will tell if this is the answer to velcro butt and if I need more care when inserting the chain.


Summery Pattern Alterations

  • Front Overlap
    Increase to 1.25″
  • Seam allowances
    • 1/4″
      • shoulder
      • neck
      • collar
      • sleeve
      • center front
    • 5/8″ SA
      • side seams
    • 1.25″
      • Hem
      • Cuff


  • Back
    • -1″BWL
    • +1″ length  at hem
    • Shoulder slope – copy from 1201
    • Armscye copy from original
  • Front
    • -1 BWL
    • Hem wedge lengthen 3.5″ at CF 1″ at SS
    • Shoulder slope – copy from 1201
    • Armscye copy from original
  • Sleeve
    • Lengthen to 21″
    • Wrist 14″ wide


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