5047 Camp Shirt: Pattern Alterations

I pulled out 5047’s shirt tissue pieces. Examined them carefully and compared with both my basic block CS1201 and the beloved Otto Vintage blouse (which unfortunately no longer fits either.)  5047 is drafted with  front and back vertical darts and hem vents. Otherwise it looks very much like the camp shirt I envision including the slightly longer shoulder and slightly (1″) flattened sleeve cap.

I traced the XL  except for the front facing. I knew I had several alterations to make some of which would affect the facing. It’s easier to IMO to make alterations to the front and then copy the front for the facing than it is to trace the facing and make all the alterations twice and then true the facing with the bodice front.    Immediately after tracing, I shortened the back waist length 1″ on both front and back. At the hem, I added an even 1″ to the length of the back because I like my blouses a little longer than Conni drafts and that’s a difference between 5047 and my block 1201.  To the front hem, I added more of a wedge.  It is 3.5″ at the center front but only 1″ at the side seam.  I used the curve to join these two points, again details from my block 1201.  I copied the shoulder curve from  my block (1201).

Now something I didn’t mention before.  When I traced the front and back pattern pieces, I traced their armscyes a second time.  Once the new shoulder slope was drawn, I lined up the original  armscye shoulder point to shoulder point, side seam to side seam. In effect, I am adding the original drafted armscye back to the altered front and back.  There’s no need to walk the seams or adjust the sleeve cap because I’ve just made sure that the sleeve as drafted will fit the armscye.  But I’m taking a chance that the armscye will work with my body.  This is one fit-area I’ve worked with several times and can’t claim 100% success. Besides, I prefer an elegant solution.  My corrective attempts have been anything but. (Elegant that is.)

The 5047 comes with a quarter sleeve. I wear quarter sleeves for short periods each year.  I’m either cold and want covering; or I’m hot and want uncovering. I’m wearing the same quarter sleeve T-shirts that I made/purchased 8 years ago. They just don’t get worn much and don’t wear out. Point is, I wanted a long sleeve. I traced the sleeve then compared it with sleeve from the Vintage blouse. The Vintage blouse no longer fits, but the sleeve is still the right length.  Comparing the sleeves shows me that the 5047 is about 1″ shorter than sleeve from the Vintage Blouse. Knowing that the 0547 sleeve cap is flattened, I aligned the underarms of the two patterns and made the 0547 that long. I also made the wrist of my 5047 14″ wide, same as my Vintage blouse.  Because I’ve already adapted the Vintage Blouse for several styles (cuffed, gathered, etc) I think that 14″ might  be too wide for a straight sleeve. But I prefer to start with it too wide and narrow a bit.  I’m hoping to make a basic that I can refer to and even outright copy to future patterns.  I desperately need TNT’s. All this fitting eats up sewing and creative time.

 

Summary of Pattern Alterations:

  • Back
    • -1″BWL
    • +1″ length  at hem
    • Shoulder slope – copy from 1201
    • Armscye copy from original
  • Front
    • -1 BWL
    • Hem wedge lengthen 3.5″ at CF 1″ at SS
    • Shoulder slope – copy from 1201
    • Armscye copy from original
  • Sleeve
    • Lengthen to 21″
    • Wrist 14″ wide

 

 

 

 

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