B5215 V3

My third version is stitched from a Rayon (50%) Polyester (46%) Lycra (4%) jersey knit purchased less than a year ago. Again, I didn’t want a dark color that wouldn’t show fitting issues; didn’t want to match stripes or prints but wanted a similar stretch. Even with the Lycra content, the stretch is still about 30% maybe a bit less.

Major change to the pattern was tracing the armscye as drafted by Connie Crawford onto my tissue copy.  Somehow that made the back side seam 1/4″ longer than the front. I made an easy compensation by just tacking a 1/8″ tuck across the back.

Finally since this is so close to what I want in a knit top pattern, I added 3/8′ height to the shoulders so I can insert my shoulder pads.

The results are amazing.

Front and back fit really well. Side seam, despite all its curves, hangs vertically. Those swags and U’s are completely gone.

As are the majority of the sleeve issues. AND the armscye darts that insisted upon forming in V1; that mysteriously appeared and disappeared in V2 are not present in V3. (I’m point out the armscye structure not the underbust structure). However, there is an indication that I don’t have quite enough bust ease:

Which makes me happy. Not the diagonals from the bust but the fact that I can probably make the side seams a little more symmetrical than they are below:

I’m not totally sure what’s happening with the back.

Does this fabric really lack the stretch of the previous?  Is that a bit of velcro butt?  Did I pull the fabric to one side and twist the back?  (I do try to straighten the garment hem just before “clicking”.)

I think in a future version it would be worth my time and effort to add the center back seam. I prefer the one-piece back stylistically. I think this is a situation in which choosing the best fit option is more important.

Despite my critiques, I like this Version 3.  My only real dislike is the length of the sleeves. A cap sleeve, or other shorter sleeve is much more flattering.

 

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Summary of Pattern Alterations

  •  Shoulder slope
    • copied from CS1202
    • approx .75″  drop at outer edge
  • Side seams
    •  Front
      • net -.5″ at underarm/bust
      • net +.25 at waist
      • net +.25 at hip
    • Back
      • net +.50 at underarm
      • net  +.50 at waist
      • net +1″ at hip
    • Armscye
      • Traced original front and back armscye
    • Hems
      • Add 1″ wedge at Cf and CB
    • Sleeve No Changes
    • Shoulder pad
      • Added 3/8 height on both front and back pattern pieces

 

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3 thoughts on “B5215 V3

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