B5215

Here’s where I left you yesterday

that’s with the back looking worse than with no changes at all. I offset the side seams to add 1.5″ ease to the back while not changing the front because I liked the looks of the front. No help. Next I let out the side seams both front and back as far as possible adding 3″ ease.  Not any better at all. In desperation, I added a sway back adjustment. On this is  muslin, that amounts to a horizontal fish-eye dart with the deepest part in the middle of the back.

I don’t think it helped. If anything, I’ve now developed back boobs and a scary face on one side of the back. (Looks faintly like Chewbaca to me.)

I opted to finish the neckline and add sleeves. neither of which will probably affect the back but I’m hoping for positive change.  I would be tickled if inserting sleeves wiped-out the armscye dart:

The neckline looks fine. However, the dart is still quite prominent. The sleeves need just a little more ease. That kind of bums me. The fabric has 30% stretch. I folded my fabric so I was not working with the raw edge; measured 10″ and stretched easily to 13″ (could have stretched more with a bit of effort.)  That gives me 30% ease. It should stretch across my armscye without my noticing or developing drag lines on the back of the sleeve.

I’m not encouraged by the side or back views either. The sleeve has definite pull lines.  I used the designated center dot and matched notches. The sleeve is smoothly eased into the armscye. In case you didn’t notice, I’m not particularly muscular and while plump, I’m not plus sized either. My biceps are typical. I rarely alter sleeve ease.  The danged swags under the arms haven’t improved a bit.  For the back, I’ve left the side seam open from 6″ above the raw edge. I was thinking of a vent like Louise Cutting frequently uses. About 4″, right? My 6″ (unfinished) vent is not helping the back bubble at all but has instead added flounces to the front hem.

I don’t know about the front. But for the back I’m beginning to suspect “Velcro Butt”.  That’s where the fabric hangs-up on the hip and will not slide or be pulled to its place.

I tried attaching clips to weight the back:

Which hardly did anything. So I made quarter weights. I added 2, quarter-weights on either side of center back, et voila (my keyboard doesn’t have the umlaut on my keyboard).

So much better that I decided to add 2 more quarter weights thus have 4, 2 on each side of center back.

Bummer. Is 2 weights the answer or is the correct answer “fabric dud”?

I didn’t care that much for this fabric when I unpacked it. Its light weight would be welcome during the high heat of summer. But since I don’t like how it drapes on me and hate the “faces” I’m seeing, I’m not going to bother to finish it. What I do want is direction. What to do next?  I want a basic knit top with shoulder seams on my shoulders and armscyes where they belong.  I want it to skim my body, following my curves without showing muffin tops or sausage rolls.   I most certainly do like the shoulder width and finding “my” shoulder slope.   Sigh, I don’t know what I’m going to do next.  Maybe I should sew  a pair of summer pants for the Black 6PAC.

 

 

 

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4 thoughts on “B5215

  1. I tend to think it’s the fabric. When trying on something that seems to stick/cling to my pants/short I remove them and see what it does just with my “slick” nylon underwear. Sometimes, that tells the story–gliding over the “slickness” and not the pant fabric. If I want to continue with the top, I just try to remember that I have to keep “pulling it down into place if I want to keep it smooth over my pants. One can have a love/hate relationship with knits, but my love outweighs my hate.

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  2. Since your woven sloper fits well through the shoulder, why not use it as a base and re-design it for a knit? If it were me, I’d fold out a vertical 1/4″ tuck all the way down the front and back pieces (mid shoulder to hem), cut them out of a relatively stable knit, and baste the seams to test fit. You could fine tune the fit to your taste. (You may need to take the shoulder seams up a bit more to accommodate the knit stretch.)

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    1. I wanted to do that but was afraid it wouldn’t work because of the differences between knits and wovens. Thanks for your directions. I need them.

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