I decided to take a break from sewing the 6PAC pieces. I only need one more pant to be ready for summer but the time I spent convalescing was filled with on-line shopping. Which filled my stash with several Connie Crawford patterns. I’m still pumped over how quick and easy is was to fit CS1201, the darted woven sloper. I purchased CS1204 the dartless bodice sloper but didn’t get anywhere with it. The shapes and measurements just were so far out from what I’m accustomed to that I couldn’t get beyond looking and measuring. I thought perhaps if I started with a pattern tweaked for knit tops, needed changes would already be drafted into the pattern. Amongst the patterns now residing in my stash is B5215
Looking at the front of the envelope, I think that View A and C are fitted which probably would work for very stretch fabrics like Slinky. I chose to trace and use View B which I believe is semi-fitted. I’m hoping it’s more like a comfortable T-shirt but with armscyes that rest at the shoulder instead of half-way down my arm and a little bust and waist shaping.
I traced the XL because judging by the back of the envelop compared to my measurements, it has ample ease. Before tracing, I was delighted to find that the petite lines were located above the waist. That’s where I need them. It was possible for me to petite by folding the originals and then trace. Also pleasant was how the various sizes are stacked on top of each other. Instead of tracing, I cut shoulder, side and hem. I had to trace the curves (neck and armscye) because I prefer my originals to stay original. You know, just in case I make copies in the future I want all the lines there. I transferred my final shoulder slope from 1204 because I think “my shoulder slope is my shoulder slope” in the way that my crotch curve is my crotch curve. No pant is ever going to fit me until it comes close to replicating my crotch curve. I measured the pattern bust and waist and found that I would have 1/2″ negative ease. Again that would be fine with slinky and some sweater knits. But for T-shirt and knit top styling, I prefer more ease. At fabric cutting time, I added 3/4″ to the side seams front and back. Then I got cold feet or sewing hands, and cut the shoulder using the pattern’s slope and marked “my” shoulder slope on the fabric.
My sacrificial fabric is 100% rayon jersey with 30% stretch. It’s a bright blue toile on white background. Looked much better in the on-line picture than in person so it’s perfect for a muslin.
Normally I tape shoulder seams and start stitching. But, I knew this would be trial garment. I hoped it would be as easy to fit as the darted woven sloper but know from experience that new patterns absolutely have to be tested and even TNT patterns need room built-in for adjustments. I stay stitched neck and armscye curves but did no taping. Using water-soluble thread in the bobbin, I stitched shoulder and side seams and did my first try on. Which immediately told me that I needed to use “MY” shoulder slope. I basted in my shoulder slope, tried the blouse on; looked in the mirror and decided to take pictures this time. Can’t say I’m thrilled. With the 1201 I spent all my time adapting the shoulder slope. With the shoulder slope fitting the rest of the bodice just worked. Not that way with this drafter-for-knits pattern.
First thing I’m seeing is a armscye bust-dart forming, followed by diagonals below the bust and some horizontals at the hip. The sleeve is not inserted (it’s not even cut at this point) which could effect the armscye dart. A sleeve needs different ease from a sleeveless bodice. There are several changes for a sleeveless bodice which means you can’t simply remove the sleeve and successfully make a sleeveless blouse. Nor can you simply insert a sleeve into a sleeveless bodice and be successful. I know this, still I’m looking at the under bust diagonals and remeasuring. There should be ample ease across the bust. Why is it making these lines? I tried tweaking the shoulder slope more. That caused the bodice to rise and try to strangle me. Obviously, not the answer I was looking for. I also tried smoothing the “dart” over to the underarm which was better.
I’m pleased that the back has sufficient width. It’s an issue I’ve seen recently because my back is rounding. But in this pattern the width across my back is good. It’s the diagonals crossing the waistline and the bubble just above the hip which trouble me.
Seen from the side, I realize that both center front and center back hems are rising. Between the CB hem rising and the bubble in the middle of the back, I think it’s more likely that I need more hip ease.
I proceedto the second fitting which includes stitching the underarm side seam so that it will be closer to my body and while letting out the side seam from hip to hem to give my rear more room.
The front view is now markedly better, except for that armscye dart. However the back and side views are worse
Taking in the side seam at the underarm has created big swags running from front to back. I thought letting out the side seams at the hip would have helped at least a little bit. But no, the CB is still rising and instead of a bubble there are about 3 horizontal lines.
‘Eh, enough pictures and whining for one day. I’ll continue tomorrow.