Fit: CS1201 Issac

Over all, I’m pleased with the fit. I can wear that sleeve but I won’t be surprised later-on when find myself converting it to a half-length.  I made one additional change to the back which I hadn’t contemplated at the muslin stage.  I kept getting a puffy back:

Not this bad all the time; and sometimes it wanted to twist to one side or the other:

There was plenty of ease. This was not a case of fabric being pushed upward because it didn’t have room to slide downward. This is not a  clingy fabric either. So I scratched my head and decided to deepen the back darts 1/4″. Just to make a stab at removing the poof. Was I surprised?

I AM SHAPELY

I do have  1/4″ shoulder pads in place and probably should get rid of those pants (I’m wearing a belt and they look like that? At least it’s the end of the day.)

A close look at the side view shows that something is still happening at the hem.

It seems to slope downward from center back to side seam and onto just about below my apex. From apex to center front, it lifts slightly. I’m also looking at the few diagonals pointing towards the side waist. Without the long sleeve, I didn’t see those diagonals. In fact all the under-bust and back diagonals I’d been struggling with had disappeared on the muslin (after the shoulder slope was corrected.).   I’m wondering if the sleeve cap needs to be higher still and/or the underarm scooped more than 1/2″.

Truthfully, I doubt if anyone else notices.  Besides, I really want to fix the sleeve before making any other changes. It’s a habit with me. Fix the obvious error and then see what is left.  Can’t tell you how many times I changed a single line of code and the whole program not only worked, but worked better and faster.

I’m really pleased to note that the neckline is perfect.  I stay stitched the muslin neckline and pinned it together during tryon’s.  It always scratched and felt a bit tight when wearing. But I’d look into the mirrors or at the pictures and say “that’s about right”.  About right for a jewel neckline. It’s a case where logic and appearance/feeling conflict. I just couldn’t get it out of my head that the neckline felt tight. I was so happy when I buttoned the neckline to the top and said “perfect”.

Many times, when I finish with an inspiration, I delete the photo or link.   But just as often, my final garment doesn’t look exactly or even close to the original. I think that has happened here. While my garment is lovely, at least to me, it neither duplicates Isaac’s in color, fabric or many details. I might want to try this again especially since I have a black and cream gauze in my stash. (Black and rose were the 2 colors in which Issac Mizrahi manufactured the original.)

~~~~

NET CHANGES TO THE SLOPER

  •  Shoulder slope
    •  3/8″ deeper at shoulder edge
  • Hem
    • add 2.5″
      • 1.25 for hem
      • 1.25 additional length
  • Back
    • 1″ BWL
    • add 1/4″ to side seams
    • deepen dart to 1/2″
  • Front
    • 1″ BWL
  • Sleeve
    • Add 1.5″ to sleeve cap

Issues still to be solved

  • Underarm depth
  • Sleeve
    • ease
    • shape
  • Possible hem issues

 

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