For fun, I decided to “crimp” the sleeve cap using the same Cover Stitch Gathering technique as made the ruffles. I was pleased at how the cap just curled
It was fairly easy to pin into the armscye
although I did need to pull up just a little in a few places. You know, increasing the gathering just slightly
It’s hard to hold the fabric and take pictures at the times time. I want you to see how I put the pin just under the top thread of the cover stitch loop.
I stitched at a moderate speed with a 3.0mm length on my sewing machine. I supposed I could have been radical and done this at the cover stitch too, but basically I don’t trust chain stitches,,, not since my RTW skirt practically fell apart one day at high school. It wasn’t until I took the set-in sleeve to the ironing board that realized what a wonderful technique I’ve discovered
I did not find a single pucker on either sleeve! Definitely adding this to my book of tricks.
I was pleased that the cap inserted so well. I had added 1.5″ height to the tissue and tried to maintain the same curve as Conni drafted yet this sleeve inserted much more smoothly than the original.
BTW, I like the look of her sleeve cap. There is obvious a front and a back. I do wish Conni had provided a full length basic sleeve instead of the quarter sleeve. I made decisions for a long sleeve which sounded logical in my mind and looked reasonable before me; might have worked in a slinky knit or something with 50% stretch. My sleeve was woefully lacking in ease.
It’s really obvious from the side view that the cap needs to be wider (I feel it too!). The 16″ I allowed for my 13″ elbow were located too high up on the sleeve. At my actual elbow there was totally insufficient room. Oh and that 10″ for a 7″ wrist? Only if I’m going to use a cuff and closure. I could barely get my hand through there. Once on, the wrist was fine. One good thing was that my old nemeses the front drag line was nowhere to be seen.
Surprising, the underarm felt good although the back felt a little tight when I moved my arms forward. I didn’t feel that tug when the sleeve had been short. I had a suggestion to lower the underarm in conjunction with the sleeve wrinkle. Now I wanted to do that change to see if it would make the sleeve more comfortable. Well, it did. It was almost like the sleeve breathed a sigh of relief. The sleeve had been too short, now I had length for a 1″ hem. Oddly, the sleeve seemed to slide upward bringing the elbow shaping almost into place but at least where the elbow could have more room to manoeuver. Unfortunately the sleeve cap was still filled with horizontal pull lines and the front diagonal returned:
I won’t at this point make underarm changes to my tissues. For starters, I think I want that height for sleeveless garments. Without question, the cap, elbow and wrist need more ease. I’m think I should copy some details from my EAC sleeve and at least get ease and over all length right for a woven, non-stretch shirt.
Well that’s a long enough post for one day. Let’s finish this up tomorrow.