I’m calling it my CS1201_Issac because this Issac Mizrahi beauty was my inspiration.
My fabric is cotton but unlike Issac’s polyester sheer, my cotton is light weight and lightly crinkled. I started with a piece 45″ wide and 3 yards long. I have 12″ left (enough for jenas pockets!) . I cut my fabric and taped the back shoulder and neckline.
I made the ruffles using my cover stitch as demoed here. On the fronts, I marked 3/4″ lines away from center front (not fold line) and then a 2nd line 3/4″ away from the first. I attached the ruffle at the sewing machine using a zig-zag stitch. It is possible to attach the ruffle to the blouse at the cover stitch. I preferred the look of the zig zag which not only attached but nailed the edges into place.
After the ruffles, I decided to do button holes. It’s easier at this stage; less bulk to be moving around. That bulk can also add drag, working against your machines buttonhole routine. In the future, I’ll do buttonholes first and then ruffles. I had to turn the fabric upside down to get the ruffles out-of-the-way. Fortunately my Ruby has a lot of harp room.
Then the little wheel had troubles staying on the fabric. I used a trick from Louise Cutting. I wrapped the band with enough water-soluble stabilizer for the wheel to ride on.
I had to leave the top button-hole until the neckline was finished. So next steps were stitching front to back shoulders; folding the combined facing/buttonband RST and adding a strip of 1″ wide self bias along the back neckline. I serged, pressed and turned the entire neckline. While I was here, I top stitched the width of my foot around the neckline and edge stitched both folded edges of the button-band. I don’t think Isaac edge stitched. I did because I think it’s one of those 30 second jobs that takes my sewing from good to superior. My back neckline strip of bias was too wide. It wanted to either flap up or roll. Either would be uncomfortable to wear (listen to the voice of experience.) I had finished that edge by serging before I even pinned it to the back neckline. It was wide enough to roll or flap but not wide enough to get back under the serger foot. Unless,,, I removed all my beautiful top stitching which I did not want to do. I let my rotary cutter with the pinking blade rescue me. I carefully pinked about 1/8″ away from my top stitching. At this point, I added the top and last buttonhole and all the buttons.
I want to put off discussing the sleeves and fit until tomorrow. I have much to record which would make this post much too long. So let me skip to the hem at the first try on. At that point I realized the blouse was a tad short. I’m hoping to be able to wear this blouse now as a spring blouse and later over a tank as a summer cover-up. I prefer a summer cover-up to be a longer (about 28″ from neck/shoulder point to finished hem). I had added 1.25″ to the sloper so it would include my standard hem. Now I added 1″wide bias to the bottom, turn it up , pressed and top stitched into place. It still is not quite long enough to satisfy my personal vision of blouse-as-summer-jacket. But it’s good and enough; and sometimes good is enough.
Sleeves in tomorrows post!