CS1201 Pattern Alterations

I loved how quickly I fit CS1201.  I could have taken much less time. But I really dug in my heels and checked one thing before looking at  another. Each by itself i.e. requiring a stitching and pic session by itself. My net changes were

  • Decrease the back waist length 1″ (my standard)
  • Increase the shoulder slope 3/8″ at the shoulder edge
  • Adding 1/4″ to the back side seam while sewing the side seam with 1/2″ seam allowances.
  • Adding 1.25″ for a turned up hem.

I test fit the sleeve and was unsure.  Seemed like a lot of gathering, yet my old nemeses were still present. I opted to leave the sleeve alone, until I could see the full effect of the shoulder and seam allowance changes.I want to share that I made my first alteration using the seam allowance method.

For the shoulder slope, I slashed the shoulder seam from shoulder edge to SA at the neckline:

Although the photo above shows the SA spread apart, I overlapped at the shoulder edge 3/8″, taped into place and  then trued the armscye edge.

I was really impressed with the shoulder length as drafted. This is the first pattern (other than a tank top or racer back) that the shoulder has been the right length. I did not want to change the shoulder length which is what would have happened if I trimmed a wedge from the top of the shoulder.

My first issue for the proposed blouse (from yesterday),  is the front button band. My sloper includes a 1″ extension at the CF.    I knew I wanted to fold the center front to form the button-band and facing. But how much? Did I need the full 1″ extension?  So I cheated, I borrowed the top front from the Ebb and aligned center front to center front (Ebb to Sloper)

After I altered the shoulder slope, I realized I want shoulder pads. I extended the shoulder line 3/8″; the height of my typical shoulder pad

I secured tissue on top and transferred CF, Fold and mentally noted the width of the Ebb facing.   I removed the Ebb pattern piece, folded along the fold line and using the front of my sloper trimmed the tissue along the neckline, shoulder and hem. Once folded out, I have a cut-on facing and front button band.

I don’t know if you can tell it, but my new facing/button band is only taped to my sloper. I can remove it at any time I want a different style!

As I plan to sew all darts, I need no other changes to the front or back. But I want a long sleeve.  I slipped tissue below the short-sleeve sloper and stopped in my tracks. How long should this be? Can I “borrow” a sleeve pattern like I did the front band? I decide it’s time for me to memorize more of my personal measurements.  I didn’t always agree with Peggy Sagers but I’m coming around. I’m finding that the more I can look and measure the more I can figure out what works or doesn’t work for me.  I put on my muslin-sloper and measure from the shoulder seam to my elbow and wrist. I’ll tell you that wasn’t easy.  I found stiffness in joints and muscles I didn’t know were there.  That’s not the worst of it though. There’s always that nagging doubt about the accuracy of the measurements. Because I have to twist and bend to get measurements my body flexes and changes those measurements. Sigh, I have to start some place so I also measure the circumference of my bicep and bent elbow.   I extended the grain line from shoulder point to 24″ (my measurement was 22 but I want to include hem and room-to-correct.  I drew a horizontal line at 13 (my elbow) and 24 (hem).  I measured up 2.5 inches from the hem and marked another line.  I measure out 5″ from both sides of the vertical line giving me a 10″ cuff (wrist).  I measured out 8″ on either side of the vertical at the elbow distance giving me 16 inches and 3″ of ease.  Then I fumbled about trying to figure how to draw the sleeve side seam lines. Finally I drew a line between armscye  point and elbow (out at the 8″) and then realigned from the elbow to my wrist. I duplicated that on the other side.

Sleeve Length Alteration

Again, the alteration is taped into place and can be removed anytime I want a different style.

Next issue was the sleeve cap. Totally unsure of the sloper. Do I increase the cap because I still had wrinkles? Or decrease because I had lots of gathering?  Then I remembered the  Craftsy class  “Fashion Draping with Paul Gallo”.  I was pretty impressed but realized I’d never do the draping he did. However,  one  gem might be helpful here. Paul Gallo said that the cap height was distance from the underarm to the shoulder point. I don’t know if this only applies to the garment he was draping of if it is a general rule. I proceed as though it is the later.  I aligned my front and back pieces so that the grain lines were parallel and the underarms overlapping at the underarm seam. I placed one ruler vertically  in the armscye void and then a second perpendicular and level with the shoulder.

That gave me a measurement of 8.5″.  I measured the cap of the sleeve and realized it was 1.5″ short.  I slipped tissue beneath the sleeve cap, marked a short line at 1.5″ above the sleeve cap and spent at least a half-hour figuring out how to draw a new curve. I’m not sure this is right. I’m not sure my reasoning is right, but it feels right:

The good thing about a too high cap is you can, with awkward difficulty, trim it down. However if the cap is too short to start with, only recuting will fix it.

Anyway, that’s the pattern I’m starting with.


2 thoughts on “CS1201 Pattern Alterations


Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s